On the journey up to Turnberry, I kept asking myself why on earth we were going to the blustery and damp West Coast of Scotland for an Autumn mini-break rather than a warmer and more exotic destination such as Rome or Madrid. Our arrival at Turnberry was grey, after a rather bleak hour’s drive from Glasgow airport in the early stages of Storm Babet. The ‘current bun’ (as our driver described it) of Ailsa Craig, sitting in the waters of the Firth of Clyde, loomed into view and became a landmark for our visit. It is an uninhabited rocky outpost, famous as the source of the curling stones in use today. The architecture of Turnberry, facing straight to the sea and always with the eye drawn to the water, uses it as a focal point.
We were greeted with a warm Scottish welcome by men in kilts at the reception. Straight away, we realised it would be the little touches – the freshest disc of shortbread as we walked through the door, the welcoming fire – which would permeate through the hotel and create the special atmosphere which make it one of the best grand hotels of its age. It is a place steeped in history, from its origins as a seaside resort for the well-heeled families of the Edwardian times, glamourous days in the 50s and 60s – the menus adorning the walls bear testament to what must have been some epic New Year’s Eve dinners – through to today where the rich and famous come to enjoy the golfing and other facilities which are second to none.
Having been whisked away to our room via some immense chandelier-and-swirly-carpet-spotting, with the fabulous view of Ailsa Craig of course in sight at all times, we admired the luxurious beds, the gold trimmings, the gigantic bathroom and the welcoming treat of exquisite raspberry macarons – all of which were wolfed down in seconds by my 11-year-old companion. The next stop was the Spa for two hours of sheer relaxation. It was my daughter’s first proper spa treatment and she made the most of this experience, trying the robe, the slippers, the locker, the hairdryer, and the toiletries in the changing room all with great gusto before actually embarking on the mini-facial for pre-teens which had been arranged for her. The verdict was excellent. Meanwhile, as a more seasoned spa visitor, the signature massage treatment was one of the very best I have experienced. I am not sure if it was the skill of the therapist, the heavenly scent of the top-quality, all-natural Ishga products, the cosy relaxing room afterwards where guests are offered shots of delicious juices, refreshing icecream and a vast range of soothing teas, or the prospect of a swim in the stunning infinity pool which proved the biggest treat.
We emerged radiant in time for a pre-dinner drink and a relaxed supper in the Grand Tea Lounge Bar where nothing was too much trouble. Guests were a mix of people, from seasoned Turnberry visitors to a large wedding party which had never been to Scotland before, and a range of international visitors too. The menu in the Bar was cleverly designed so visitors could eat a substantial three-course meal or a snack of avocado on toast or anything in between. One of the loveliest traditions of Turnberry is the piper who paraded up and down the terrace outside for an hour each evening, playing his bagpipes in all weathers, whilst we sat inside and watched and listened. By the time we went to bed, we felt very pleased that we had chosen Scotland over a warmer climate for our time away.
After a very hearty (and delicious) breakfast the following morning, it was off to Turnberry Adventures for several hours of fun outside. Having slept for 10 hours solid in great comfort, we were more than ready to have a go at the activities on offer. This was where the expertise of Raphael, our guide, really kicked in. My daughter is a keen archer, based on her childhood fascination with Robin Hood and several years of excellent tuition at Perriswood Archery in the Gower Peninsula, but the range of the bows on offer at Turnberry was beyond what she had seen before. Raphael was there to guide her through it all and gave her some useful tips for improvement. My forte turned out to be the air rifles, where precision and stillness were key. Finally, it was on to the shooting range. Yet again, Raphael’s expert tuition helped my daughter to go from novice to enthusiast in the space of a couple of hours. His patience in letting her try different guns and different approaches was amazing, and his friendly manner and interesting stories about his experiences of working in the hospitality industry meant that time flew by.
We were more than ready for afternoon tea back at the hotel, which was a fairly conventional affair, with delicious sandwiches (the smoked salmon, unsurprisingly, could not have been better) and pretty cakes. The list of teas to choose from was extensive and we had fun selecting a few, including a couple of exotic flavours. After a couple of hours of relaxing and some more time in the pool, we were back again for dinner in 1906, the main restaurant. The service was incredibly friendly and all the food was delicious. Starters were strong on flavours, with my cured seabream, grapefruit and pickled radish really impressive, and our main courses of beef and lamb were more traditionally presented, and delicious. The chef was happy to adapt dishes slightly for a child’s taste and we both went to bed feeling very well-fed indeed.
The following morning, we needed to blow some cobwebs away and decided to have a very blustery tour of the Turnberry estate. We were taken to the farm area and saw the impressive stables, which would be heaven for anyone interested in horses, although sadly not suitable for my highly allergic daughter. We passed the historic airfield which had played a role in both World Wars. Turnberry really does provide a vast range of entertainment and activities – some gentle, some more energetic – for all its guests and there is no time to be bored. We also saw the accommodation for golfing parties – lots of individual houses, which can be used on a self-catering basis or more integrated with the main hotel. As with everything at Turnberry, it was an impressive set-up which could cater for the most serious golfers.
Our final stop, after an excellent lunch from the Duel in the Sun’s imaginative all-day dining menu (at the golf clubhouse), was a lesson with one of the golf pros. His knowledge and patience were commendable. As with everything else at Turnberry, the equipment was top notch and every stroke we played was analysed forensically by our golf pro, who then showed us how to adjust our grip, our position or our club, to gain a better performance. As a final farewell, we walked up to the iconic Turnberry lighthouse, now housing a bar, where the strong wind nearly blew us off the viewing platform and into the sea. After a quick cup of tea to warm up again by the fire in the main hotel, we were ready to make the short journey back to the airport. In 48 hours, we felt we had really made the most of all on offer at Turnberry, which is far more than a hotel. It offers an experience, seeped in heritage but never stuffy, and was the most wonderful way to enjoy a relaxing break with my daughter. The constant sight of the sea was endlessly relaxing and we left feeling that a mini-break in Scotland had been far more refreshing, accessible and interesting than a couple of days in the South of Europe would have been. We will definitely go back!
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