The Grand by name, grand by nature. Built in 1875 at the height of seaside holidaying, it was the most lavish hotel imaginable at the time.
Over the years, guests have included Winston Churchill, Charlie Chaplin and Sherlock Holmes writer Arthur Conan Doyle, and it was where Debussy completed ‘La Mer’.
Today, it remains an icon of the south coast. So on a glorious British summer’s day – exactly the intended light for it to be best enjoyed – I paid a visit to see how this five-star hotel fares almost 150 years on.
As far as seaside accommodation goes, it certainly ticks all the boxes. For starters it’s in Eastbourne, often cited as the sunniest place in England. The Grand takes pride of place on the seafront, with glorious sea views beyond the gardens and promenade before it.
It’s easy enough to get to. It’s a 20-minute walk through the town centre from the train station (which is equally refined in its Victorian detail). Or for the brave-hearted and strong-legged, it’s at the end of the Seven Sisters hike. This famous walk offers stunning views of the undulating white cliffs that you’ll have seen a million times on telly.
There’s 152 spacious rooms, many with sea views. Like the rest of the hotel, they’re dedicated to the traditional aesthetic. Depending on your taste, you’ll either feel at home or marvel at the kitsch. From toe-warming carpets to mahogany furniture to old framed pictures of Eastbourne, it is very much in tune with its Englishness and history.
Again like the rest of the hotel, you’ll find touches of modernity when it makes the most sense. In the rooms, it’s in the sleek, soft lighting. You won’t find USB charging points, and it’s one of only a few places where this is endearing rather than annoying. Don’t go changing, The Grand.
As a prominent Victorian five-star hotel, you’d expect the kind of service that the characters in Bridgerton would receive if they all went to the seaside together. At a time when other upscale places struggle to maintain their desired level, their high standard of service is appreciated.
An example: when I came down for breakfast at 9am, I found a long queue to be seated in the Garden Grill, its main restaurant. But fair dues – I was given a heads up at check-in that it would be peak time. Better still, the queue moved and guests were seated swiftly. Once I was sat, I made peace with an inevitable delay to my coffee and breakfast order. But no – breakfast service is clearly a well-oiled machine, and the waiting staff saw to me just as swiftly. Service like this should be a given, yes, but isn’t it lovely when it all works as intended?
There’s a (slightly tired) spa, sauna, steam room, gym and indoor pool at The Grand that all guests can use (although spa treatments are extra, obvs). But it’s the Victorian outdoor swimming pool is the place to linger. It’s the embodiment of quaint, with manicured gardens sheltering it and infusing an English-garden-esque atmosphere.
Even on chillier days, there’s plenty to do. The lounge (where afternoon tea is served) is stunning, with floor-to-ceiling windows, sweeping curtains draped back to let the light flood in, and upholstered armchairs to sink into. The cocktail bar is another social area to people-watch. Or there’s also a snooker room, though it was out of use on my visit.
There’s also plenty of space for meetings, conferences, private events and weddings.
You’ll find fine dining in Mirabelle, under the watch of chef Alex Burtenshaw. Its side-street entrance means it feels a little separate from the hotel, which gives it more of an exclusive feel.
I ate at the larger Garden Grill, whose name makes it sound more lamb-rack-and-chips than it is. Rather, in the most elegant of spaces, locally sourced meats take centre stage. Otherwise the extensive menu is predominantly British cuisine with international influences. My main was flavour-packed baked gnocchi in a tomato and goats cheese sauce. And other plant-based options included a garden summer salad, pea and mint soup, and new season asparagus, served with saffron and garlic mayonnaise. It was equally fitting that the well-picked wine list featured the best of Sussex sparkling, although oddly, none were available by the glass.
Breakfast was a delight. While you could also order hot dishes (like a full English or smashed avocado with poached eggs), the continental buffet selection was extensive and replenished promptly. I left it piled high with fruit salad, granola, yoghurt, pastries, goat’s cheese and smoked salmon.
It’s a small thing, but glory be to the fastest toast machine in the world. The pain of standing there and awkwardly watching a slice get drawn into the machine, disappear, and return slightly less soft, didn’t happen here. More of this in hotels everywhere, I say.
Rooms at The Grand Hotel start from £220 per room per night (two sharing), including breakfast. Contact The Grand on 01323 412345.
