Edging the Black Forest on one side and France on the other, Baden-Baden is a Unesco heritage spa town that’s been a major holiday destination for the landlocked Germans for centuries. Its medicinal waters might be what first attracted people here, but now it’s the icing on the cake of a decadent stay that can be filled with excellent art, casino nights, good food and great walks.
In the heart of the city, you’ll find Roomers, a five-star hotel that opened in 2016. A stand-out contemporary building within a traditional town, it features 130 rooms, and a pan-Asian restaurant and rooftop bar that’s locally revered. But what’s it like to stay there? Here’s our tried and tested review.
A 20-minute drive from Karlsruhe Airport (with direct flights from London Stansted), Baden-Baden is nicely accessible for Londoners. It’s a small town that’s walkable in around 30 minutes from one end of the centre to the other, meandering along a gorgeous path by the River Oos.
Roomers is found on the northern side, which makes it more convenient for transport links. It’s set back enough to be away from the main action, but near enough to be convenient. You’ll find it directly opposite the famous Festspielhaus, Germany’s largest opera and concert house. The town’s other big attractions – the Roman baths of Friedrichsbad Spa, the more modern Caracalla Spa, the Faberge Museum and the shopping epicentre of Lange Strasse – are all within 20 minutes walk along the main road.
The 130 rooms range from a 32 sqm double to a 185 sqm suite with its own bar and garden. I stayed in the lush Superior Suite, which include a feature bath within the living area and stylishly low-set beds. In keeping with the Piero Lissoni-designed building, it’s tastefully contemporary, with plush fabrics, earthy woods and diffused lights ensuring the contemporary also feels cosy. The beds were blissful. Even though my room faced the main street, it was quiet and comfortable enough for a rare night of uninterrupted sleep.
Roomers is part of the Marriot group, not that it carries any impression of a chain hotel. Rather, in a town famed for its historical style, Roomers stands out with its sleek, designer offering. Inside, the airy, dramatic height of the reception and its choice wall art make it feel more like a modern art gallery than a hotel. Like the exterior, the sparingly-picked furnishings and objets d’art are bold in some aspects and minimalist in others – which makes the aesthetic interesting at the very least.
Service is discreet and formal, what you’d expect from a gallery-esque hotel. The odd miscommunication was quickly sorted without fuss, except for at the spa, where I wasn’t told that my masseuse had called in sick, so I was left waiting in an unstaffed reception. But given the level of service elsewhere, I suspect that’s an anomaly rather than a common occurrence.
As one might expect from a hotel in Baden-Baden, the piece de résistance is the spa – this one is a 500 sqm rooftop spa, complete with a sauna, hammam, heated pool, treatment rooms, and infinity pool.
A heads up: both the sauna and heated infinity pool face the flats on the opposite side of the main street, but that’s part and parcel of its central location. And the infinity pool is adjoined to the rooftop area, suggesting it’s designed for people who want to see and be seen rather than those seeking an R&R escape.
Also on-site are a gym, child care facilities, valet parking, and the reception is 24 hours.
The ground floor has a restaurant that serves top-end drinks, the rooftop bar also serves incredible food. That’s what we call a balanced diet.
The main eatery is the pan-Asian Moriki, set within a sophisticated wooden-tinged space. Never mind the 15ft mural on the wall – the star of the interiors is the 12-seater round table with a flamingo statue lit up in the centre. With my appetite whetted with a coriander-tinged sake negroni, I found out the food is equally show-stopping. The miso cod, ordered with fresh and zingy greens, was particularly delicate and elevated.
If celebrities were hanging out in Baden-Baden, I’m pretty sure the rooftop lounge bar is where you’ll find them. Under a vibey soundtrack of thumping beats, the dark interiors, relaxed atmosphere and mix of seating spaces make it feel like an exclusive social centre. Service was impeccable too. though our visit took place off-season. It’s open every night until 1am.
If you’re in the area, have breakfast here even if you’re not staying. It’s glorious, and features a large, top-quality buffet, made-to-order favourites and delectable German pastries. I especially admired the DIY margarita and Bloody Mary station with Patron tequila and Grey Goose vodka. Sat with a glass of the local sparkling rosé, an oat milk mocha, the spiciest ginger shot, and a mini-marg, I wasn’t quite sure what kind of a day I was setting myself up for, but I knew I did it right.
Room prices start at €200 upwards excluding breakfast per night. For more information and to book, visit roomers-hotels.com