The Oriental Hotel, now the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, landed in the capital before Thailand was Thailand (it was Siam back then). First opening in 1877, after a fire destroyed the original structure in 1865, it was the city’s first luxury hotel. It became such an essential part of Bangkok’s tapestry that it was the second building in the Thai capital to get electricity (after the royal palace).
Since then, it has been a prominent stop-off point for many voluptuary travellers. If its walls could talk, they would probably tell us of the famous faces who have passed through – from Marlon Brando and Eleanor Roosevelt to John Le Carré and Lady Diana Princess of Wales. They might not mention how regular visitor, writer Somerset Maugham, was once shipped off to hospital by one hotel manager when he arrived with malaria, leaving him a tad peeved – though he returned as many do.
The resplendent riverside hotel has had various owners over its 150 years – from two Danish sea captains and royals to war correspondents and the infamous silk tycoon Jim Thompson. It has been under the notorious Mandarin Oriental banner since 2008 but to this day remains – despite fierce competition from younger brands like the Capella and The Four Seasons – Bangkok’s most prestigious postcode.
The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, though, has a fascinating history on its side – as well as 12 dining options, two tennis courts, a plush spa, two swimming pools, and a showstopping jazz bar (also Bangkok’s first). Still, higher ups haven’t rested on their laurels. In 2019, Jeffrey Wilkes was put in charge of the hotel’s most extensive restoration, costing an eye-watering $90 million.
Bangkok’s Chao Phraya River once connected Bangkok to the rest of the world. So, seafarers regularly passed through The Mandarin Oriental, which sits next to the old Customs House, where ships would pay their dues upon arriving in the city. A notable difference from the old days is ICONSIAM – a monumental shopping mall opposite the Mandarin Oriental. Guests not keen on exploring the shops may prefer nipping down to Chinatown for the buzz or street food. For culture, the arty Warehouse 30 – an industrial area with art galleries, coffee shops and vintage shops – is only a few minutes from the hotel. When their stay ends, departing guests can get to Suvarnabhumi Airport in under an hour or Don Mueang Airport in just over 30 minutes (traffic dependent).
Mandarin Oriental Bangkok had a significant refurbishment a few years ago, so although the hotel retains its heritage style, it doesn’t feel dated. All 331 rooms and suites retain that old-world grandeur many guests come for – whitewashed wood-panelled walls, gold trimmings, pretty Jim Thompson fabrics and toned-down, non-twee tropical Thai-influenced artwork and fabrics. Orchids sit on contemporary furniture; king-sized beds have grandiose teak headboards backed by hammered brass Royal Barge Boat motifs – a subtle nod to the hotel’s proximity to the Chao Phraya River, which was a big inspiration behind refurbishment.
Some rooms have the added privilege of balconies with knockout views over Bangkok’s iconic skyline and river. All have well-stocked minibars, plush bedding and huge smart TVs with screen mirroring. Bathrooms, clad in elegant green and white tiles, are outrageously spacious. They come with gorgeous put-me-in-your-suitcase lemongrass toiletries cased in aluminium and Japanese toilets that solute and hiss whenever you walk by.
There are hotel workers at Mandarin Oriental who have been there for decades, like affable Bandith, a waiter at Sala Rim Naam, who perfectly personifies warm, Thai-style service. Though this Grand Dame regularly hosts royals and famous faces, refreshingly, the service style isn’t over the top and in your face as you find in some Grand Dame hotels. Instead, the hotel has moved with the times, respecting guests’ desire for privacy, independence and efficiency. Impressively, everyone at Mandarin Oriental Bangkok seems to remember your name, room number and dining preferences. Some simple touches include complimentary poolside sunscreen, sweet notes (some from previous guests) laid on your pillow at turn down, and butlers always have lifts ready for you. Well-dressed concierge staff are typically gracious and welcoming, while the gentleman who schedules shuttle boats never stops smiling.
The Mandarin Oriental, though tight on space, isn’t short of facilities either. Some guests spend long days lounging by the pool or making the most of the exceptional teak-clad spa across the river – the signature Oriental Harmony four-hand massage should be prescribed to anyone fresh off the back of a long-haul flight. More energetic visitors can skip across to fire a few serves at one of the hotel’s two floodlit tennis courts. Or sweat out the previous night’s alcohol at the hotel’s yoga and fitness centre, which has its own Muay Thai Boxing studio, steam room, sauna and Jacuzzis. Complimentary local experiences are also available at reception, from boat tours to guided walks.
Breakfast at Mandarin Oriental Bangkok is served on the river and is arguably the city’s best – though Kimpton Mai-Lai gives it a run for its money. Gorge on a banquet of fresh, tropical fruits, excellent pastries or choose eggs whichever way you like from the omelette station. All your allergies are tended to, so oat lattes and gluten-free breads are on the menu. Always order a fresh coconut (embossed with the hotel’s logo) to round things off.
It’s news to nobody that Bangkok’s food scene is exemplary — from its top-notch street food to the many Michelin-star restaurants. Still, visitors to Mandarin Oriental Bangkok have options galore on their doorstep (12 dining options). Terrace Rim Naam serves traditional Thai food on the riverbank, while Sala Rim Naam offers Thai dancing with dinner inside. The Verandah’s menu features mainly Mediterranean-inspired dishes, including an indulgent truffle-covered burrata and rich pasta dishes.
The standout restaurant – aside from the acclaimed Le Normandie by Alain Roux and Kinu by Takagi – is Baan Phraya. Under the watchful eye of the humble yet exceptional chef Pom Phatchara, Baan Phraya serves a host of clever, elevated Thai dishes in a tiny, traditional dining room. That dining room once belonged to one of Thailand’s most decorated elites, Phraya Mahai Savanya, who regularly hosted exclusive dinner parties there with partner Khunying Loearn Mahai Savanya. Some of the things they served influence Phatchara’s dishes, which hail from across Thailand, including her home province of Yasothon.
After dinner, nightcaps are a must at the famous Bamboo bar, which serves soothing jazz and excellent cocktails.
Fact Box
Address: 48 Oriental Ave, Khwaeng Bang Rak, Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500, Thailand
Website: mandarinoriental.com
Rooms: available from around £600 per night
Adam was a guest of the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok.
