When we think of Sri Lanka’s south coast, we picture palm-fringed golden sandy beaches overlooked by veteran stilt fishermen scouring under the sun. Perhaps even barefooted 30-somethings with zinc-covered faces zooming through dusty towns like Ahangama on decades-old mopeds, surfboards under their arms. The serene Malabar Hill, comprised of 12 luxury pool villas, is both a few minutes and a world away from the surf houses and homestays in this neck of the woods.
The lavish boutique resort is a hilltop sanctuary overlooking the sublimely green wetlands and ocean, away from the rattle of trains and humdrum of tuk-tuks from downtown Weligama. Guests spend their days here reading in plush villas or sprawling out on handmade poolside cabanas, occasionally stopping to watch purple-faced langur monkeys charging through the canopy.
Malabar Hill is a paradisical hideout located atop a tree-covered hill close to Weligama – a beginner-friendly surf spot on the southwest coast of Sri Lanka. The drive-up challenges even the most experienced tuk-tuk drivers (the path is muddy, windy and steep). Still, once the electric golf buggy has collected you from halfway up and delivered you to the pool, you probably won’t want to leave. If you do, there’s a complimentary shuttle to the nearby sandy shores of Mirissa. For the more practical-minded, Colombo airport is about two and a half hours away, and Weligama train station is around a ten-minute drive.
All 12 villas at Malabar Hill, disguised by thick flora (over 500 species) and fauna (over 240 species), look like part of the jungle. Inside, each one has a luxury safari feel. Picture this: neutral hues, low-slung seating, industrial-looking concrete ceilings and stunning wooden furniture – even the screen hiding the air conditioning unit appears handcrafted.
Designer owner Lawson Johnston oversaw much of the design process to ensure nothing was out of place, and he barely missed a trick. Almost everything is where it should be (aside from the slippery cream mats). The plush king-sized bed is adjacent to the floor-to-ceiling window, inviting the eye outside and nature sounds in. And everywhere you look, there is a cohesion between the external landscape and clever interior design, which is purposefully subdued in colour to allow the villa’s best asset to flourish: the views.
Each villa has a comfortable bed, plush linens, yoga mats, fabrics galore, a fully stocked mini-bar (and delicious cassava chips), rainfall shower and toiletries that smell like Refresher bars. What more do you want? A TV. Not here. Instead, you’re invited to dip in the pool. Do yoga on the patio. Read on the outdoor corner seating overlooking a tapestry of paddy fields. Or sit and listen to over 50 species of chirping birds, crickets, and occasionally chanting monks from the nearby temple. For keen twitchers, there’s a book inside each villa documenting the birds of Sri Lanka (the author even stayed at Malabar Hill).
The atmosphere at Malabar Hill embodies the often-overused term ‘laid-back luxury’. Hotel staff, like the lovely Govindu, greet guests with warm, typical Sri Lankan smiles and are always available on WhatsApp should you ever need them. Others coast around fixing pool towels, clearing stony pathways that wind through the jungle towards the villas or topping up water glasses before guests realise they’re empty.
Regarding facilities, Malabar Hill doesn’t deal in gimmicks or services nobody will use. Space is limited here, and nature is the hotel’s finest asset. That and the gorgeous 35-metre infinity pool hovering over an impossibly green landscape with the ocean on the horizon. A small spa in one of the villas offers well-priced massages and meditation and yoga classes. Guests can also go on nature walks or bike rides. A shuttle service to Mirissa is also available for those wanting to hit the beach. But aside from that, it’s you and the jungle (and your luxurious villa and private pool).
Malabar Hill is home to perhaps the most beautifully crafted bartop we’ve ever seen – a mesmeric curved piece of art that looks like a line-up of tall, wooden coupette glasses. Bartenders here serve everything from ice-cold local Lion beer to cocktails, wine and smoothies as punters dine on views across the jungle and Weligama beach in the distance.
Moorish-influenced Hill House is the on-site hotel’s superb open-air restaurant offering 240-degree views. Its menu blends classic Sri Lanka dishes, like curry and rice, hoppers and fresh seafood, with Mediterranean cuisine – the three beetroot started and gazpacho are both super. One of the finest things about Malabar Hill is the option to dine in villas at no additional cost. Some guests come here for days and barely leave their villas. Breakfast options include Western dishes like avocado toast, scrambled eggs, and a gorgeous shakshuka. Sri Lankan-style breakfast (string hoppers, milk rice, coconut roti and daal) is also available but must be ordered the day before.
Address: Palalla – Borala Rd, Weligama
Website: malabarhillsrilanka.com
Rooms: Pool villas from £320 per night bed and breakfast (based on two sharing)
