1992 was a massive year for Spain. They completed the high-speed railway from Madrid to Seville. Madrid celebrated being European City of Culture, while Seville held their Universal Expo. And Barcelona, of course, hosted the Olympic Games. And the big winner was Barcelona, which had undergone an extraordinary transformation on every level to become the city we know today. The coastline railway was shifted inland, gone were the shanty towns that lined the shore, and millions of tons of sand were brought in, creating 4 kilometres of beautiful beaches.
A downside was that, with the arrival of low-cost airlines, the city rapidly became inundated with tourists – a cultural shift that has had significant repercussions for the community.
A Spanish speaker, I have visited BCN several times a year for the last decade. I could write about the tourist attractions, but they are self-evident. Instead, here’s my take on the other stuff to enjoy in this city, away from the stag and hen dos that blight Barceloneta.
Barcelona is extremely hot and hideously busy midsummer so the sweet spots of spring and autumn are much to be recommended. It also means that the sun’s rise is at a more humane hour as it heaves itself out of the sea – quite a sight to behold.
Firstly, get yourself accommodation in the Poblenou district. With its own Rambla, it remains an intact community that has retained its Catalan soul. Meanwhile, it has a youthful buzz, with former factories having become something of a tech hub, drawing young professionals to the area from all over the world – think ‘Shoreditch-on-Sea’. It’s also a convenient base, the Metro taking you to all the key tourist sites with ease.
To visit works by Gaudí is a cultural obligation. Aside from the magnificent Sagrada Familia, Casas Milà and Batlló are exceptional. It’s also worth going a little off-piste and visiting Hospital de Sant Pau, designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner and built at the start of the 20th century to provide for the burgeoning population. It is as much about landscaping as it is architecture, and is the place where Gaudí died. Lastly, the Barcelona Pavillion by Mies Van der Rohe is worthy of a pilgrimage.
Poblenou enjoys the very best segment of the beachfront, Platja del Bogatell, where everyone and his sister goes at the weekend. It’s just a great place to just relax and enjoy the beach life. For lunch, the terrace of the Base Nautica, serves simple local food. The chiperones, by the way, are fabulous. Incidentally, you can take early morning lessons in paddleboarding from the club if that’s your thing. End your day with a mojito in the beach bar El Chiringuito, served with retro dance music and a side of beach volleyball.
With its tall ceilings, exposed brickwork and steel, Minyam appears to have been lifted straight out of Soho, NYC. A bar and restaurant, it’s hard to beat for gin and tonic and they have a vast selection, each with its own garnish. Try Gin Mare served with a sprig of rosemary. Alternatively, the French gin, Citadelle, is equally delicious. The restaurant menu is eclectic from steaks to paella, their speciality. Nearby is Balius, a fun cocktail bar with live jazz on Sunday nights. If you are downtown, dress up and take a cocktail at Batuar on the roof terrace of the glamorous Cotton House. It’s a boutique hotel in Eixample full of lavish colonial details.
For paella, and yes, it is compulsory, try Xiringuito Escribà, located further west on the shorefront. It is truly superb. In Barceloneta, there’s Salamanca, which is well-regarded for its seafood. But Barceloneta’s lunchtime gem must be La Cova Fumada. Eaves-drop on locals debating football as you decipher the chalked menu of the day. Try a bomba (a meaty croqueta) and, frankly, anything else. It’s a true experience, and worth going a tad early to get a table. That said, not far away is El Xampanyet, a quirky joint selling sausages and sparkling wine. It’s great fun.
In Eixample near Girona station, there’s a cosy little restaurant called Betlem with clever wine pairings for each dish, which we return to again and again.
Back in Poblenou, we keep an eye out for a menu del dia. Brisa on the Rambla does a wonderful parrillan de carne that you cook yourself. 58, on the Rambla is a goodie, and, a bit further north, track down L’Artisana for a very impressive daily menu.
For pizza, it’s hard to beat Madre Lievito. If your pockets are deeper and you’re in need of seafood Els Pescadors has a charming formality to it and their food is exceptional. If you’d prefer something more casual La Carmayola isn’t far away either. And if you have already indulged at lunchtime, Catacroquet just serves a delicious selection of croquetas and drinks.
The ability to enjoy the buzz of a city with the relaxation of a beach is a comparatively rare combo, and to my mind, quite compelling. If, like me, you get quickly bored on a lounger there is a limitless amount of culture to reengage the brain. But since the beach was created it has eroded by 70 per cent, a process that is only accelerating, so if this is your kind of holiday you may wish to go sooner rather than later…
