Peter Emrys-Roberts
Ok, I admit it. I bloody love pizza. That notwithstanding, it is by any metric the work of the devil – satan’s mate, if you will. So spare a thought for me as I set aside all plans to beat my dad-bod for summer and take one for the team at Doughnation Pizza. You’re welcome….
That said, let me share with you a cunning trick. Allegedly, if you eat a salad before fatty foods your body becomes preoccupied by the fibre such that the impact of, say, a pizza is considerably reduced. And as luck would have it, they do a decent green salad.
The building on Covent Garden’s Piazza (see what he did there) has been turned it into a multi-floor eatery including Pivot (a British bistro and bar) and Doughnation.
Its location is very convenient for theatre-land and has created a British take on the pizza menu using a thin base rather than the doughy Neapolitan style. This means that you get a delicious meal without leaving you feeling stuffed and drowsy, and it won’t be giving you IBS during Act Two.
Furthermore, the menu is reassuringly short and familiar and is powered by a bank of eight pizza ovens in the kitchen, meaning you are assured of swift service.
We attended a press launch and were afforded a little slice of everything. Thin-crust pizza base is a tricky art – one moment it’s undercooked and prone to delamination, next it’s a biscuit. And for the most part of our taster menu they were bob-on. Herewith our notes on the slices we tried:
Pepperoni –Thin pepperoni slices, spicy and delicious
Nduja and rocket – Hard to go wrong, confidently nailed and a firm favourite
Covent Garden Vegan – Well, vegan cheese is what it is. It can’t ‘strand’
Marguerita – Very rosemary, some would say lacking basil, based on the original recipe from 1889 for Queen Margarita
Potato – No, I’m not a fan of white pizzas in general, but this one works. Buttery, herby and crunchy, it was surprisingly good. Probably best as a shared pizza for a group of four.
Mushroom – With toasted hazelnuts and in spite of being ‘white’ it’s quite intriguing. The flavours have room to speak.
As for drinks we piled in on the gin, though there’s a decent short wine list plus beers and soft drinks.
Cocktails as follows:
Gin and tonic – Silent Pool citrus-infused English gin, and at 43% it has some punch. Garnished with a slice of grapefruit
Negroni – The litmus for me, Cocchi vermouth and Silent Pool it continues the light citrus tip. As a summer Negroni, this really works.
Surrey Hills Spritz – With elderflower syrup (as seasonal as it gets), a little over-sweet for me but delicious nonetheless.
To dine alfresco practically in the Piazza is a joy in itself, so combined with the delicious pizza and cocktails made for a lovely evening. And to rediscover the joy of thin-crust was quite a surprise. In my opinion Doughnation is the right offer in the right place, and no doubt will do very well.
Chapeau Mr Greenaway!
Doughnation Pizza, 3 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden
