It doesn’t take long after the lunch bell sounds in offices around Exmouth Market before queues start spilling out of the door at Gerry’s Hot Subs.
The Montreal-inspired deli, which features bold, cherry-red branding and an enticing automatic sub-dispenser sitting atop a long counter and underneath cinema board displays of sandwiches, has become a big hit since it first swung its doors open at the start of the summer, with Guardian critic Jay Rayner saying it should be taken “very seriously indeed”.
It offers Montrealers a nostalgic slice of Schwartz’s, which is considered a cultural institution in the city having been established in 1928 by Reuben Schwartz. Smoked meat spills out of sandwiches that are served on rye bread with healthy dousings of yellow mustard, with diners split between the countertops and tables.
Andre Blais, the man behind Gerry’s Hot Subs on Exmouth Market, says his dad, Gerry, loved that deli, and so did he.
Having travelled across Canada and America eating every kind of Sub, Hoagie, Hero, Grinder, Torpedo and Poor Boy the two countries have to offer he has returned to London with a Schwartz’s spin-off offering a range of hot subs in a deli-style environment that feels, oddly, right at home in this quaint, culinary corner of Farringdon.
The grill is permanently occupied by thinly sliced prime steak, grilled onions, sweet red peppers and Provolone cheese at different stages of readiness, with gastronorm trays being lifted and lowered at breakneck speed like a cup and ball magic trick.
Alongside the popular Philly Cheese Steak is a ‘Boston Butt Pulled Pork’ sub and BBQ brisket options which all get jammed into white and brown sub rolls with healthy servings of melted cheese and sauce.
But for the authentic Schwartz’s experience, try the Beef Pastrami sandwich, which is served ‘subbed’ rather than ‘sandwiched’, with thinly sliced strips of Gerry’s prime house smoked beef pastrami sitting atop sauerkraut with carrots, Emmental cheese, mustard and pickles.
On a nice day, you can sit out on the patio overlooking Spa Fields or prop up a standing table on Exmouth Market with a cold draught beer to wash it all down.
Simply delightful.
Gerry’s Hot Subs, 50 Exmouth Market, London EC1R 4QE
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