Celebrating an association with champagne that stretches back to the first bottling of their own cuvee in 1893, Searcys’ made good use of the splendour of 10-11 Carlton House Terrace to showcase a wide variety of both French and English fizz in their inaugural Bubbly Show. Taking place over two days, the event offered the opportunity to taste cuvees from 17 producers with a series of talks and tutored tastings for those wanting to dive deeper into their glass.
A presentation on “All You Need to Know About Champagne” by Seary’s Head of Champagne, Martin Dibben, provided a perfect starting point. Starting with some basic facts – spoiler alert, Champagne wasn’t invented by Dom Perignon, we covered the correct temperature at which the wine should be drunk (much warmer than you might think) and why champagne tastes better from magnum. We were then given a tour of the breadth of types of champagne available. Brut – Searcys’ own cuvee comes from Maison Boutain, the largest champagne house you’ve never heard of, is obviously the most commonly found variant, and many will have at least a passing familiarity with Rose and the all Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs. However, at the sweeter end Taittinger’s Nocturne Sec NV was a very different beast, smooth and full-bodied with more than a hint of elderflower cordial. The final treat was a glass of Taittinger’s 2015 vintage brut.
Outside the formal sessions, a myriad of tasting opportunities presented themselves. Champagne was represented by a number of the great houses – in addition to Taittinger, Laurent-Perrier, Moet, Perrier-Jouet and Pommery were all present and correct but the more boutique houses of Frerejean Freres and Champagne Drappier showed that brand recognition isn’t the sole determinant of fine wine. On the English side, well established names like Balfour Winery, Greyfriars and Bolney Wine Estate were joined by comparative newcomers such as Hoffman & Rathbone, Black Chalk and Silverhand Estate, while Wild Idol showcased an alcohol-free version for those able to abstain. There was a blind tasting each day for those keen to engage in the perennial cross-channel battle of French Champagne versus English sparkling wine. I’ve long considered this an argument that the average fizz lover can’t really lose, with excellent wines on both sides. The recent slew of awards bestowed upon Gusborne’s excellent Blanc de Blancs 2018 provided further proof of English wineries’ ability to compete with the best but generally, the mood in the room was of two sides rightly confident in the quality of their offerings and secure in their place in the market.
There was then nothing left to do but roll up the sleeves and get down to the serious business of tasting. A personal favourite was the Pol Couronne Oenotheque Vintage 2012 Grand Cru, available through event co-sponsor Honest Grapes and very reasonably priced given the age. Chapel Down’s Grand Reserve 2018 showed that the Brits can do vintage as well as anyone. Frerejean Frere’s Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru demonstrated impressive maturity and complexity while English newcomer Black Chalk’s Classic 2020 offered a wonderful combination of fruit and minerality. Other highlights included Perrier-Jouet’s Belle Epoque 2014 and Pommery’s Brut Apanage Blanc de Blancs NV.
In the event that the availability of wine became overwhelming, some respite could be partially found with a classic afternoon tea – only partially because, of course, it came with a glass of bubbly. Given the enthusiasm with which the attendees of this inaugural show threw themselves into the wines it seems unlikely this will be the last of such events. Anyone with an interest in sparkling wine should look out for the next one.
Related: Restaurant review: Cavo, Soho
