Going to visit a retirement home where one doesn’t have a relative is not something most of us would consider a fun way to spend an afternoon. So it was with a slight sense of trepidation and that a friend and I entered through the Chelsea Gate into The Royal Hospital Chelsea. As it turned out it was an interesting and uplifting experience.
The Royal Hospital is one of those rare and singular British institutions which has endured on the same site fulfilling the same function for over 330 years; commissioned in 1682 by Charles II to provide a home for army veterans- the Chelsea Pensioners famous for their red uniforms. The grounds are also used for major events such as the Chelsea Flower Show. However, apart from improvements to the accommodation is a place where modernity has done little to alter either it’s traditions or the Sir Christopher Wren and later Sir John Soane-designed buildings, that is until now with opening of the Heidi Cafe in the old stable yard (see below).
The history of the Royal Hospital Chelsea is fascinating, the interiors of the Wren parts of the buildings are stunning. The dining hall is panelled with lists of campaigns and engagements of the British army dating from today all the way back to the founding years of the institution. Whatever one’s views of Britain’s complex history through a contemporary lens might be one cannot help but be struck by the sacrifice of so many when confronted by such a long list of campaigns and military engagements.
Freshly made pastries and salads.
THE HEIDI CAFE
The cafe is operated by the well-regarded Heidi Bakery and have a number of sites in the south east, notably in Windsor. Heidi bake all their breads, cakes and pastries daily in their Windsor central kitchen and then delivers each morning to their cafes. The cafe is in the stable block, serving their freshly made pastries, cakes and salads. What makes the cafe special (apart from just the enthusiastic servers), is the location. Unlike cafes or restaurants in museums or National Trust houses the Royal Hospital Chelsea is despite all the tradition, and splendid historic buildings a working retirement home, which lends it even to the casual visitor a unique quality. On our visit to Heidi we had a good quinoa salad and shared an excellent quiche, and a tasty pastry, as sometimes it’s better not to resist temptation. Then went on a guided tour of the Royal Hospital. The tour was led by one of the residents, a retired sergeant who was highly informative, humorous, and chivied our small group around in a manner only an experienced NCO would know how with a leather pace stick in one hand and a laser pen in the other.
Both the Heidi Cafe and the tour are recommended (allow two hours), as there are few places where you can experience living history in such an intimate and good-humoured way as well as have a coffee and a proper pastry.
THE FACTS
Royal Hospital Chelsea
Royal Hospital Road
London, SW3 4SR.
For guided tours: https://chelsea-pensioners.co.uk/visit/tours
General enquiries: 020 7881 5200
Heidi Bakery (in the Soane Stable Yard).
- Open: Monday -Friday 08:00-17:00
- Weekends and bank holidays: 09:00-17:00