Peter Emrys-Roberts
I used to live in Waterloo – not the station, obviously, but nearby. And each day I would walk to my office in Covent Garden across its bridge, absorbing its legendary views that have inspired everyone from Monet to the Kinks. So to be invited to celebrate the new incarnation of Radio rooftop bar on a warm summer’s eve caught my full attention. Located atop the ME hotel on Aldwych, it takes this view up ten levels, literally. I remember the original bar, all monochrome, shiny and chic though somewhat unwelcoming.
Enter acclaimed restaurant designer Bernard Caroll, who has breathed warmth and light into it to create a relaxing and stylish venue that celebrates and compliments the view. The terrace wraps around the whole bar and has sofas, dining and poser tables and there’s a sliding cover that can be used should the weather decide. There’s always a zone that will suit your mood and/or the weather…
Great views are best shared with friends, and so it is with the new Asian tapas menu, ideal for groups meeting after work. Executive Chef Federico Crisafulli spent 9 years in Tokyo and Yokohama honing his craft, and it showed in the many dishes that were brought out to us, each as appetising as they were delicious. And balancing the experience was their charismatic sommelier Giuseppe Bergonzi, who talked us through each of the parings with infectious enthusiasm.
Starting with sashimi, it was super-tender, colourful and bright. The Spicy Tuna Maki had been lightly flamed leaving it intriguingly warm, and there was a vegetarian version made with asparagus. This course was matched by an Albariño, Serra da Estrela, a slightly green-tinged white that didn’t taste green at all, more fruity and chewy, and worked well as a fish combo.
The evening also showcased their cocktail menu, each arriving in random order. My first was called Far East Side – a twist on the almost-mojito East Side, this time with a moment of elderflower, substituting gin with sake and tequila.
I snaffled a tug on my guest’s Tokyo Rose, combining Ukiyo Blossom gin, Lanique Spirit of Rose, lychee, raspberry, watermelon, and pressed lime, and it was disgusting, but hey, I loathe pink Turkish delight so don’t judge me.
The tempura tiger prawns were piping hot, crisp and fabulous with sweet chilli dip, while I skipped the scallops because scallops (we just don’t get on). These were rinsed down with a rosé from Château Mutey, Côte de Provence, a classic bone-dry blush of the region.
Wagyu is served wafer thin and is subtle, fatty and delicious with umami delivered by shiitake and a sliver of truffle. Meanwhile, the chicken teriyaki was reassuringly sticky and pretty much as you would expect. Giuseppe matched these up with a glass of Côte Sauvage, Cairanne 2021, from Côte du Rhone; crunchy, fruit-forward, I’m getting notes of octane (14:5%), old oak, and wild fruits, this is a very classy wine considering its comparative youth.
Puds arrived comprising Drunken Pineapple, seared under the grill was simple and sweet, accompanied by a glass of dessert saki (yes, it’s a thing) and the Vanilla Mochi had a fine outer layer of which I approve.
As glamorous locations go for a get-together with friends, right now Radio is looking hard to beat especially if budget is not an issue. But then you get what you pay for and Waterloo Sunset’s fine.
Related: Ekstedt at the Yard: Glorious Twelfth meets ancient Scandinavian cooking
