The original Amazónico opened in 2016 in Madrid and was created by a well-known husband and wife team of restauranteurs, Sandro Silva and Marta Seco. Setting out to take inspiration from the cultural diversity and gastronomic heritage of the Amazon region, Amazónico became very popular in Madrid and then the couple opened their first restaurant outside of Spain by opening Amazónico London in Berkely Square.
The venue itself is probably best described as what the backers of The Rainforest Café aspired to be but unlike that late and definitely unlamented Shaftesbury Avenue fleece-joint, Mayfair restaurant Amazónico has created a genuinely beautiful and lush environment which (almost) conjures up the feeling of being in an actual rainforest. Sitting near to Sexy Fish and opposite the new Annabel’s, there is clearly a running battle of decorations going on around Berkeley Square these days. But, to be fair, it does work here and it’s certainly something to behold as the pictures show.
Now included in the Amazon culinary heritage is that of the Asian and Mediterranean communities which inhabit the countries of the Amazon. It has a proper sushi counter. Which leads on to my visit to try the new Japazónico Menu at Amazónico. This promises a light, tropical lunch menu featuring the highlights from their sushi sushi counter as well as their take on a poke bowl, and all capable of being served within 45 minutes.
This is a three course Nikkei Lunch Menu which offers a tropical take on sushi. First you get a choice of two pieces of nigiri, such as Ginshake with King Salmon and banana miso cream or Amadai with Japanese red bream, wasabi and manao. I had Japanese red bream, wasabi, manao crunch, which was pretty near perfect. As my guest said: “God, this just reminds you of how good Japanese food is when it’s good”. Spot on. I also liked the temperature of the dish being nearer to room temperature than I’m used to with sushi – it worked in bringing out the flavour of some perfect bream.
Next, you choose from a range of Maki – one choice each, with 8 pieces – including the Amazónico Roll of avocado, mango, coconut, cacao nibs; an Atun Picante with spicy red tuna tartare, cucumber, green apple, chives; Hamachi Maki with yellowtail, green papaya, citrus mayo, yuzu tobiko; or a Lomi-Lomi with ora king salmon, avocado, coriander, salmon roe.
I chose the spicy tuna, but ended up to my surprise trying to steal most of my guest’s Amazónico Roll. As a seafood fanatic I have always regarded ordering vegetarian Maki as the choice of the, ahem, less sophisticated diner (i.e. what are you doing you bloody idiot – there’s a fish over there! A real fish! Eat it!) but this avocado and mango roll was simply delicious. Try and it and you’ll see what I mean.
Finally, you get to choose two ingredients for a Poke bowl, from a choice of salmon, bream, yellowtail and bluefin. Your choices are then served in a variant on a traditional Poke (not there’s a sign of the times that I can even write that) with Koshihikari rice, cashew nuts, avocado and a spicy-citrus dressing. These bowls were a curate’s egg: while delicious, I would have added more vegetables to brighten them up and mix the flavours more. Albeit the fish came in satisfyingly large chunks and was as fresh you could desire. But I suspect what the Poke bowls are there to ensure is enough substance to make sure that everyone finishes the lunch feeling fully sated. And in that context they are spot on. Beforehand I had been vaguely considering a late top-up stop at Kiln on my way back to Soho to have some of their superb soy marinated chicken. After the Poke bowl I ditched that plan pretty quick.
Finally, and crucially, the price. £38 for the lot. Quite pricey in my native Yorkshire. A complete bargain on Berkeley Square. Seriously, this is top notch sushi in a great setting with attentive staff and, if needed, quick service, all on one of the most expensive squares in London for less than forty quid a head. It was packed for lunch with some very beautiful people. It is not hard to see why.
Amazonico London – 10 Berkeley Square , W1J 6BR – +44 (0)20 7404 5000
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