Towards the end of last year, chef Atul Kochhar opened two London restaurants almost simultaneously. In the former Westminster Fire Station, Mathura is very much a fine dining restaurant, with a menu inspired by India and its myriad bordering nations. Masalchi, on the other hand champions a range of street-food inspired dishes from a site between Wembley Stadium and The SSE Arena, Wembley.
At the bottom of the ramp leading up to the stadium, on the corner of Olympic Way, Masalchi acts as the chef’s first foray into a more casual dining format, following a string of successful fine dining establishments throughout London and the home counties. Here, the setting is intentionally relaxed and sociable, celebrating the exotic abundance of India’s spices, with dishes inspired by chef Atul Kochhar’s travels in India.
On the launch of Masalchi, Atul Kochhar said: “The energy and vibrancy of Wembley Park makes it one of the most exciting places in London right now. Opening Masalchi in this sporting, entertainment, shopping and dining destination makes a lot of sense and will be a thrilling next chapter for my hospitality group.”
Inside, the light, open space is bold and decorated with plenty of attention to detail, while managing to strike an excellent balance between casual, comfortable, and refined. With space for 120 guests, Masalchi is the sort of place that feels both suitable for a dinner date, or to pop in for a quick meal and a few drinks before a football match or concert. The accessibility is heightened even further by warm, friendly staff and the menu format which showcases a selection of ‘half plates’ (“like tapas,” I’m informed), grills, curries, biryanis, and side dishes at sensible price points.
A recent dinner at Masalchi began with a dish of jhal muri (£4.50), featuring a large bowl of puffed rice studded with mustard oil, chilli and lemon: a textural thrill with bold, complimentary flavours. Even better was an aloo papdi chaat based with fried papdi crackers, also accompanied by a crescendo of contrasting flavours and textures which come together in perfect harmony, ultimately contributing to a dish far greater than the sum of its basic parts, also featuring sweet tamarind and date chutney, coriander and mint chutney, sweet yoghurt, spiced potato, and a generous pinch of sev for additional crunch (£4.50). Chicken 65 was another standout, with fried chicken portions cloaked in a crispy batter and a light, sticky sauce, rampant with curry leaf and a strong punch of chilli to add plenty of kick without being overwhelming (£6.50).
From the Masalchi menu’s section devoted to various curries, Goan prawn balchao harboured large king prawns bathing in a rich, spicy sauce with a distinct sour note, demanding to be mopped up by highlights from the bread basket, best of which was a classic garlic naan or kulcha scantily clad with melted cheese. Gosht biryani was also highly recommended, and for good reason, comprising tender chunks of slow-cooked lamb under a bed of rice and slightly sweet fried onions. Smoked aubergine chokha, on the other hand, featured aubergine cooked to the point of textural submission, in a gorgeous sauce heady with garlic and tomato, also demanding to be mopped up with bread.
Gulab jamun followed, with surprisingly light cheese dumplings deep fried and absolutely drenched in rose and orange syrup, served warm alongside a smattering of crushed pistachios: an outrageously sweet, yet quite refreshing dessert to conclude dinner at what looks to be a successful foray into casual dining for chef Atul Kochhar.
Masalchi can be found at 2 Wembley Park Boulevard, Wembley, HA9 0HP.
Related: Restaurant Review: Mathura
