Walking along Piccadilly for most Londoners is something to be done at pace and with heads down.
About 25 years ago, I decided to look up, as all the visitors to our great city do, and took a leisurely stroll taking in the wonderful buildings that line the street. It’s something I still do and urge others to follow suit.
However, there are also some real hidden gems if you search below the surface on the street once famed for its one of the many underground venues.
One of these is The Mistress of Mayfair where guests are transported to the decadent feasts and lavish soirées of 1920s high society London, with a Parisian twist.
Upon arriving you are transported to a 1920s speakeasy/jazz venue with red suede banquette seating on the walls, and luxurious red and gold tasselled chairs that are very comfortable. I felt like I had been transported back in time to an age of decadence with the set-up here.
The cocktail list here is split between classics and house signatures.
We went for a Naked & Famous (Ojo de Dios Mezcal, Aperol, Yellow Chartreuse and Fresh Lime Juice). This drink has become one of the staple Mezcal cocktails over the past few years and I have not had a better one to date. Incredibly well-rounded and balancing the delicate smoke and acidity of the Mezcal with both Aperol and Chartreuse yellow (which I will always prefer as an ingredient to the classic green). This is a must-try here.
The Riviera Punch with Amàzzoni Gin, St Germain Liqueur, Lime Juice, Apple Juice and Fresh Cucumber was a thirst-quenching, light, fresh drink with a zingy acidity to get your gastric juices flowing.
The menu is designed to share, but it is by no means a strict requirement for all the Joey Tribbiani’s of the world!
We started with the Tuna Tartare Shallot, Citrus Dressing, and Avocado with an Arborio Rice Cracker which comprised of fresh, perfectly seasoned tuna with creamy avocado and a rice cracker to add some texture to the dish – a total triumph.
The Hamachi Crudo – a Japanese sushi-grade yellowtail fish – was served with granny smith sauce vierge, mandarin, and lemon aioli and was expertly prepared and wonderfully balanced.
For mains, we ordered the Truffle Rigatoni with mascarpone cream, fresh truffles, which was also available as a vegan option. This rigatoni was ‘al dente’ while the sauce was buttery and creamy, finished with thinly sliced black truffle.
We also had Lamb Cutlets Sunchoke Purée, Lamb Jus and Red Chilli. The lamb was juicy and tender and the char on it added a sensational smoky element to the dish, nicely finished off with a couple of thin slices of red chilli.
For sides, we had fries which were crunchy and very well-seasoned. The French Bean Salad with pink peppercorn dressing, beetroot, ricotta, toasted walnuts was really fresh and accompanied the main courses really delightfully.
The food was paired with Domaine Dubuet-Monthelie Pinot Noir 2022, a nice light, yet slightly earthy Burgundy Pinot Noir which was versatile enough to complement both main courses and the side dish.
For dessert, there were two options. The Profiteroles were crunchy creamy, bitter, grown up and delicious. I am a big fan of this dish when done right, and the pastry chef has nailed it here.
The Tarte tatin caramel sauce was the only dish that didn’t really hit the spot, I would have liked to have seen less sauce and crunchier filo pastry.
We were expertly guided and looked after by our waiter Miri, and everyone we encountered at the venue was helpful, smiling and friendly which is a credit to the management team.
There was a DJ playing here, but this was not a nightclub atmosphere, she had managed to get both the music level and tracks just right for the evening.
Come here for the food, service and ambience, stay for a great night out.
The Mistress of Mayfair, 48 St. James’ Street Mayfair, SW1A 1JT
Open Wednesday-Saturday from 6pm, Open until 3am Thursday to Saturday.
