The Mayfair Chippy – there’s no irony lost on anyone who’s ever played Monopoly.
This is not an area of London where traditional British fast food outlets are generally well represented. No kebabs, greasy spoons or chicken shops. If, however, you want to blow your bonus then Roka is on the opposing corner and, for fish, Scott’s is just a couple of blocks down.
The restaurant has a charming albeit tight interior with checker-tile floor, painted wood panelling and handsome watercolours of fish adorning the walls. We arrived at 6:30 and there was already a queue outside, though thankfully we were joining a group so were ushered straight in. Taking the large back room, we were afforded the chance to share a wide selection of starters, which went something like this:
Crispy Oyster Mushrooms: utterly delicious, their cep-like meatiness wrapped in crisp batter, matched with a black truffle and mayonnaise. I’d have these every time.
Maldon Rock Oysters: served with the traditional garnish, they are fresh and clean in flavour. These slipped down very well indeed.
Goats’ cheese and beetroot: the cheese was dryer and less gooey than I’d have hoped but worked well with the beetroot, and endive leaves add a bitterness to the jam.
Kedgeree Scotch Egg: now this is a work of genius! The ‘sausage meat’ is from flaked smoked haddock and rice, Breaded and fried to perfection. Served with a light curry sauce on the side, I had more than my fair share and for me this was their ‘destination-dish’.
Coronation Chicken fritters: yes. Just yes.
For the main course we were given the choice of cod or haddock so tried both. Haddock is usually slightly thinner and flakier, cod being firmer and a little thicker – though, on balance, we struggled to tell the difference and both were fabulous. Beer is supplied by Fullers, so they use it to work its magic on the batter, which was as good as any I ever tasted. The fish arrive resting on a bed of chips in a frying basket, cheered on by a trio of sauces: tartar, mushy (pronounced ‘mooshy’, obvs), and curry sauce, a great northern delicacy on chips, which I was very glad to revisit. The tartar sauce is more to the mayo than I would prefer, though true to their ‘Chippy’ roots. The peas were proper, with the occasional rogue complete pea, as it should.
The chips are double-fried and of traditional dimensions, and the Sarson’s is on hand for purists. They are served generously; If you manage to finish the chips that’s impressive.
The drinks list includes beers, wines, an extensive gin list, and of course a nice cup of tea (there are 10 types to choose from).
We tried a bottle of ‘La Brosette’, a Touraine sauvignon blanc, which was perfect for the occasion, crisp and flowery. The Loire, often considered too far north to deliver a consistent harvest, gets a poor showing in the UK, so this was a treat.
There were three puddings that we got to share. The Sticky Date Pudding is caramelized and gorgeous, and served with clotted cream ice cream. And equally comforting is the Chocolate Pudding served with salt caramel ice cream and cinder toffee. But my favourite, not having quite such a sweet tooth, was the Classic Sherry Trifle. Their version only features kirsch-steeped black cherries, and the whipped cream is enhanced with vanilla. It’s a winner!
The team at the restaurant are all pros, and afforded us excellent and charming service. Name check to Luca, the consummate host.
Thus the meal ably explained the queue at the door. A combination of excellent fresh fish and affordable prices, this the perfect place to retire to for a well-earned rest after a day’s Christmas shopping.
Or just for lunch. With a nice pot of tea.
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