A great combination of a cosy environment, a great menu and excellent cooking.
Set an hour’s drive from North London is the quaint Hertfordshire village of Hunsdon. The Fox & Hounds is a location steeped in history but also has the culinary skills to really impress.
A stone’s throw away from Henry VIII’s hunting lodge, the pub has been operating for over 300 years. Originally used as an inn for travellers on the route into London, for the last 20 years it has been under the expert stewardship of James and Bianca Rix. Head Chef James Rix previously worked alongside Michelin-star chefs Gary Rhodes and Alastair Little and was head chef at Tom Conran’s The Cow in Notting Hill.
The interior is well kept with a rustic charm, it strikes the balance of being both a great option for a quick drink and a special occasion meal. Recently celebrating their 20th anniversary, prices were reduced to the 2004 rates, so anyone lucky enough to get a booking was treated to pints for £2.70.
The menu is changed frequently, dishes are dependent on both the seasonal changes and the best quality available from local suppliers. Our visit in October was just as the switch was being made from fish, in favour of more meats and game.
The black pudding starter, served with a fried egg and mushrooms, is an unusual option but this elevated classic is well worth a try. A sizable portion keeps locals stopping by for a mid-week lunch, and I can see why. The cheese souffle is also a strong indulgent option to kick off your meal.
As an alternative to the multiple meat options, all the pasta is hand-rolled and made fresh on-site. The pumpkin and ricotta ravioli is delicately presented and packed a flavourful punch.
Carrying on the theme of elevated classics, there were two clear stand-out dishes that are difficult to look past when making your meal selection. The first of which was the suet-crusted beef and red wine pie, served with creamy mashed potato. The blend of the light and flaky topping mixed with the deeply rich and meaty sauce is as close to pie perfection as I can recall.
The second stand out was the sticky toffee pudding. And again, one of the best versions of this dessert that I’ve had. The classic sponge is served with butterscotch sauce and clotted cream. It is indulgence to the max and should come with a warning to anyone living within a 5-mile radius.
The Fox & Hounds is a great combination of a cosy environment, a great menu and excellent cookery. It’ll be a drive for most people to visit, so unlikely something you’d choose to do on a whim, but that just makes it all the more enjoyable.
Make the effort! Get a group together, plan a weekend walk and treat yourself to a meal here afterwards.
Just be sure to book in advance.
Related: Restaurant review: Starling, Esher
