Seldom has classic food been re-imagined so spectacularly well.
Food: 9 / 10
Service: 10 / 10
Atmosphere: 8 / 10
Overall: 9 / 10
There’s a lovely extract from a recent Tony Blair interview with the Evening Standard in which the former British prime minister muses that nothing in politics particularly surprises him any more.
Crazed right-wing demigods? They’re ten a penny. Hostile dictators hell-bent on provoking the next World War for pointless land grabs? There’s nothing new there.
But one thing he’ll never be able to wrap his head around is that Alastair Campbell, his former spin doctor and the man who once walked in his shadow, is selling out arenas as a reborn podcast superstar.
“It’s incredible, I mean, him selling out the O2. I’m, well, amazed!”, he says looking aghast.
“Alastair Campbell, selling out the O2! I mean!”
The extract came to mind during a recent visit to Starling Bistro in Esher, Surrey, which has been opened by former Tom Kerridge head chef, Nick Beardshaw.
Having worked alongside Kerridge for 14 years, Beardshaw has embarked on his first solo venture outside the gaze of the man who is now the proud face of M&S Food and British Airways in-flight dining, and by gosh is he off to a good start.
A bottle-aged negroni arrives at our table to start alongside a Virgin Bellini, shortly joined thereafter by truffle cheese crumpets and a chicken nugget in house hot sauce.
Those lucky enough to have enjoyed a meal at The Hand & Flowers will recall the special attention given to bar snacks, which is a trait that has been carried through here.
Small flakes of 36-month-aged parmesan sit atop a crumpet that has been gently kissed by truffle, which is a blessing in a world where truffle so often over dominates delicate dishes. The chicken nugget, meanwhile, is an absolute triumph, showcasing wonderful pan-Asian influences with a Carribean kick.
Before entrees reach the table James Shaw, who joins Starling as general manager from Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, where he was assistant head sommelier, puts his excellent wine knowlege to use with two of the best pairings I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing this year.
A Sauvignon Blanc with notes of apple and pear from Northern Italy accompanied the Crispy Pig’s Head, while a zesty and fresh Riesling went like hand to glove alongside Beardshaw’s entry to the Great British Menu of 2023, a ‘Moon Shaped Pool’ containing scallops and other fresh and airy accompaniments.
The main course brings more classical dishes spectacularly re-imagined.
Duck is presented on the plate like strips of wagyu steak, with leg croustillants and tardivo scattered around drops of cherry ketchup. A wood handled steak knife is on the table, but a spoon would do the job and would afford you the opportunity to simply let the duck melt in your mouth.
Cornish Day Boat Brill is served with seaweed butter, leek, parsnip and side orders of roast potatoes with a deep, crispy crust and garlic roasted hispi cabbage which deserves a special mention.
Another Great British Menu treat awaits for desert in the shape of ‘Balloon Girl’, but ever a sucker for a nice bit of cheese and fruit cake, it was a 36-month aged Comte that arrived at the table alongside fruit soda bread, chunky home-made chutney that tasted like Christmas and a glass of port served straight from what I believe was a Rehoboam bottle.
Like Blair’s ex-spin doctor, the menu demonstrates that Beardshaw is ready to emerge out of the shadow of his former boss having being bolstered by the experience afforded under his mentorship. This is classic cooking with a modern twist, which only the top, top chefs can pull off well.
Esher, consider yourself lucky. You’ve just landed one of the best new bistros on the market.
3 High St, Esher, KT10 9RL
Monday: Closed
Tuesday: Closed
Wednesday: 12–9 pm
Thursday: 12–9 pm
Friday: 12–9 pm
Saturday: 12–9 pm
Sunday: 12–3 pm
