I know everyone hates the phrase “concept” when applied to restaurants, so let’s use the word “idea” instead, and look at the restaurant idea that Nico Simeone has created with his group Six by Nico restaurants. The idea reflects the current trend for tasting menus, which are loved both by diners (you get to try lots of interesting dishes and no surprises on the bill) and restaurateurs, or certainly their FDs, as they allow a restaurant to plan more effectively and efficiently which dishes will be served and order their ingredients accordingly. These sorts of menus do not suit a quick supper with a colleague, but they are ideal for catching up with an old friend over a leisurely dinner. Which is exactly what I did at Six by Nico at Canary Wharf last week.
Six by Nico does take things a step further, however: the set menu is the only thing on offer, has six courses and it changes every six weeks. Mathematical symmetry aside, this does keep the menus fresh and allows them the scope to delve into particular cuisines, regions, cooking styles or ideas.
Then there is the pricing. The Canary Wharf branch offers a six-course tasting menu for £48 and matching wine pairings for £35. That is simply inexpensive in the current climate at approximately £8 per course, and there is also not too much in the way of adds on to skew the bill: some snacks – we tried a mac and cheese croquette for £8. There is one extra course available, hot & Sour Indonesian King Prawns, Papaya, Peanut And Sesame for £9, but none of the extra £15 or £20 you end up having to pay to eat the dishes you actually want elsewhere.
The menu for the next few weeks is billed as a street food tour around the world. First up was a Gochujang Pork Steamed Bun, Chilli Oil, Ginger & Pickled Mushroom representing Seoul. This did not look like any Bao bun I have seen before, with more of a crust but that was sort of irrelevant as it was absolutely delicious, swimming in a gigantically flavoured ginger and mushroom broth. Great start. The came a Samosa from Goa with spiced Onions & pickles. Definitely more restrained but precisely cooked and crisp rather than greasy as can happen with samosas. Also they used a trick that they repeated several times of using finely diced apples and other fruit to create a freshness in the mouth that really worked with the essentially fried dishes. Good second round.
Then to what for me was the best dish of the evening, a kebab from Istanbul made of lamb Belly, roasted cabbage, pickled golden raisins, salsa verde & roasted garlic foam. The meat was charred but soft and full of the flavour of melting fat. Garlic is obviously perfect with this, but the surprise was the golden raisins which added an unexpectedly apposite sweetness. Then to a fish taco from Mexico City with coalfish, barbecue corn, smoked jalapeno & tomatillo salsa, which also had on the plate a filet of the first, moist well cooked. Again very good but not as great as the kebab.
The one disappointment was the Jakartan chicken satay, leg roulade, with shallot jam, satay sauce, peanut crumble and pak choi salad. It was well cooked and like all the dishes beautiful on the plate, but for some reason just did not sing and I would have had difficulty identifying its origin if asked blind. Certainly nothing like the many superb satays I have enjoyed in Indonesia. So fine but a bit dull.
However, all was redeemed with the Hanoi coffee course of cocoa mousseline, coffee, dulce de leche & buttermilk. This had crunchy brittle crowning a dish or rich, soft loveliness. I essentially inhaled it and would have happily continued doing so indefinitely. A perfect way to end.
Service was friendly and time was taken to ensure that staff were capable of explaining the dishes, and to their credit went back and checked if there was a question to which they did not know the answer. The venue itself was also well thought out, with tables not too close and décor the right mix of informal and luxurious. It is an interesting concept, and based on the number of walk-ups turned away while we were there, a very popular way for people to experience and enjoy an ambitious tasting menu at a price which is within reach. There is a lot to commend about that, and I can only see this restaurant and the whole Six by Nico group growing. People will have a great evening out, eat some interesting food and keep coming back. Now is that not what it’s all about?
