There was a time in Britain when olive oil was bought at the chemist’s, pizza was made with cheddar, pasta only came in tins of red sauce or processed cheese, and garlic was well known to be as dangerous as an unexploded bomb. Fortunately, time and progress have brought many benefits to our tables, one of which is good pasta. We’re fortunate in London to have a number of excellent pasta specialists including Noci, with established branches in Battersea Power Station, Islington, and Shoreditch. So, I was pleased to visit their new Richmond outpost.
It’s just a few minutes’ walk from Richmond station towards the Thames, along a stretch of road with several restaurants, including the rather good rotisserie chicken joint Cocotte, and the local Ivy outpost (shame about the food). The room like their other branches is pleasant and comfortable, bright but just right. The front-of-house team is friendly, informative and efficient.
So, what about the food, I hear you ask? To start, I dived into a glass of Vermentino, accompanied by a very good and generous plate of beef carpaccio with a wasabi mayonnaise. Then for the main course, pasta naturally. I chose the silk handkerchiefs (sheets of pasta) with leeks, peas, confit egg, and whatnot. A big square of focaccia was useful for mopping up the dish too. Happy days.
The food at Noci is a blend of the modern, even experimental, and the traditional, which works very well. There’s a level of sophistication in the range of flavours and preparation that is unexpected in what is a casual dining restaurant. It represents what I hope is a growing trend in London’s dining scene: specialist restaurants offering imagination, quality and value.
I really couldn’t find fault with the meal. The restaurant delivers what it promises, and that is all a diner could want.
Noci is good value too, which is rare these days, with all the main courses under £17. There is also a lunch menu for £15 (2 courses and a drink).
Noci Richmond, 15-17 Hill Rise, Richmond, TW10 6UQ
