N BRIEF:
- Food: 8/10
- Service: 9/10
- Atmosphere: 9/10
- Overall: 8.5/10
IN DETAIL:
Milk Beach is the Australian all-day dining venue which was opened in Soho in 2022 by Sydney-born Elliot Milne. What would food inspired by the casual dining scene in Sydney bring to London’s vibrant West End by a former lawyer? I was very keen to find out!
Part of the redevelopment of the Ilona Rose area that links Greek Street and Manette Street, which also hosts Darocco, Wacky Wombat, Kapara and Three Sheets, the restaurant has an immediately striking look with a mix of pastel colours, artex walls and a wonderful view down to a tree below which can be viewed from the restaurant through the glass floor.
The tree is quite a sight, but what was even warmer than the venue’s aesthetic was the welcome that I got at the front desk by the host, who led me through to a stone-topped table.
A gentle beach vibe music plays throughout the meal, which not only relaxes you, but keeps you that way.
I had a selection from the festive sharing menu which is designed for four people and was kindly presided over by the kitchen team. Rich green Bella Cerignola Olives arrived at the table, readying me for the feast ahead.
Next to arrive was the perfectly baked and chunky slices of St JOHN Sourdough Bread with plenty of whipped marmite butter. I couldn’t really taste the marmite in the butter, but it was fantastic, nonetheless.
Then the Four Pillars (an iconic Australian Gin which has a cult following for its Bloody Shiraz variant) cured salmon with grapefruit and wasabi cream was dispatched. This was a really clever dish. The citrus worked so well with the salmon and the wasabi was delicate and not too overpowering. A touch of salt would have made it perfect.
But a dish that needed no extra finesse was the Stracciatella with hot honey, plum rosemary and toasted hazelnut. This was one of the standout dishes of 2024 for me; creamy, fruity, unctuous, with a lovely crunch to it. Every stracciatella dish from now on will be compared to this one. I absolutely loved it!
Onto mains where I had the Barbecued Monkfish tail with white miso buerre blanc. The monkfish was perfectly cooked, and the sauce was sensational.
I then had the Lamb rump with Sichuan peppercorn jus and XO pagrattato (breadcrumbs). The lamb could have been slightly pinker, but it was undeniably tasty and the jus was deep and rich. The crisp of the breadcrumbs contrasted nicely with the soft lamb.
For dessert, the pavlova with passionfruit, kiwi, coconut and chantilly cream was very well made and a great way to finish a meal. The dark chocolate fondant with Brandy mascarpone cream was okay, but I don’t feel the Brandy came through, or that it had the quality of the rest of the menu.
There is also a very well-put-together wine list with my highlights being the Tasmanian sparkling wine and the dessert Muscat which paired very well with the two desserts on offer.
The service was very friendly, knowledgeable, and vibrant, and the team didn’t miss a beat. Seeing a front of house that are clearly enjoying themselves whilst being on top of their guest’s needs is always a pleasure. A particular shout out to Jack who looked after my table.
Milk Beach Soho
Location: Ilona Rose House, Manette Street, London W1D 4AL
Availability for the festive sharing menu:
Lunch
Mon – Fri: 12pm – 3pm
Dinner
Mon – Wed: 5:30pm – 10:30pm
Thurs: 5:30pm – 11pm
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