In many ways, the quality of food on offer in London restaurants has never been better and continues a seemingly unstoppable march upwards. The axiom is not, however, always evident when it comes to the food made available to tourists and shoppers in some of the busiest parts of central London. For every careful development, such as Arcade or the cluster of excellent places curated by the Crown Estate around Heddon Street, there is a proliferation elsewhere of steakhouses and pasta/pizza chains which surely to god have long past their sell-by date.
Covent Garden, and its northern boundary of Longacre, has long had its fair share of such places, expert only in fleecing the unwary and seemingly indifferent to any obligation to provide a fun venue or decent food.
Into this unprepossessing milieu steps Luci, and it was with some trepidation that I approached a new venue describing itself as offering food all day from breakfast to dinner, with counter service. But how wrong I was. How very, very wrong.
Luci also describes itself as the first place in London to replicate a Milanese-style counter offering, but I think this is a half-truth as Alan Yau did the same with the excellent but now defunct Princi on Wardour Street. But with the latter’s demise, Luci is indeed the only one in Central London operating to my knowledge. And it is a good format so long as the food is up to scratch.
At Luci, it is very, very much up to scratch. We started with a hefty Panzanella salad – with the eponymous bread comprising epically large and crusty chunks, as well as a classic Caprese salad of firm but moist mozzarella with tomatoes and fresh basil as finally a chicken breast, avocado mayo, black olives and romano salad. Each was delicious and with very substantial portions. And best of all cheap – at between 7 to 9 quid per (large) portion.
Similarly with the main courses, where there is a choice of al forno (baked) dishes from the counter as well as pizza slices – from the astonishingly dazzling and large pizza oven – together with an a la carte menu offering full pizzas and various pasta dishes. The dishes offered are not unique, nor are they trying to create a cutting or unusual edge to them. Rather, they have focused on offering well-cooked and well-presented Italian classics at prices which most people can afford.
As an example, the Melanzane alla Parmigiana – the classic, hearty dish of layered aubergine, passata, mozzarella and parmesan baked until a deep golden brown – was as deep and rich as one could hope and is a dish I will be running for come the bitter dog days of November. Quite fantastic. And yours on a plate for nine pounds and fifty pence. In Covent Garden, in the centre of London. Nine pounds and fifty pence!
Or you could try a whole Capricciosa pizza with tomato sauce, fior di latte, prosciutto cotto, artichoke, Leccino olives, wild mushrooms and Basil for fourteen pounds Cavatelli with Lamb meatballs and Pecorino Romano for eleven pounds. Then there are the great Italian puddings that just always work – a very good Tiramisu (six pounds and fifty pence!!) to pick you up – and homemade ice creams.
So what’s the catch? I don’t know. Maybe – hopefully – there isn’t one. The space itself is beautiful with a vast high ceiling, an epic staircase at the back and a couple of floors. The place is all very Instagrammable and on my visit had quite a few very happy-looking tourists doing just that. They bake their own bread which tastes as beautiful as it looks, and you can take a loaf home with you. The staff are upbeat and friendly. The only thing I found odd is their offer of that classic Italian breakfast staple the croissant. Er, ok. But I guess I do like croissants for breakfast so what the heck.
So what do we have: great, classic Italian food, on one of the busiest streets in London, in a large venue with spectacular décor and friendly staff, and all at refreshingly low prices. This one could do very well you know. It certainly deserves to run and run.
Related: Restaurant review: Bossa, Marylebone
