It’s been 10 years since Gaucho last opened a new restaurant in London, focussing instead on regional expansion. However, good things come to those who wait and their latest offering occupies space on James Street bang in the middle of Covent Garden. The ground floor includes a bar and a sun trap of a terrace from which to watch the world go by. Meanwhile the downstairs has something altogether late night on its mind, and will offer those tempted to linger over a last drink and beyond entertainment that on our visit included a DJ and Latin dancers expertly weaving their way through the tables.
Although generally suspicious of negronis and those who drink them, the recommended Citrus Negroni delivered on its promise of a twist of summer, with the gomme syrup offsetting the usual tartness of the Campari. Meanwhile the Rhubarb Spritz was a fruity and fresh aperitif for those who prefer a non-alcoholic option.
The Gaucho menu has a far broader range of dishes than just the meat it is famed for, and we picked fish to start. The Hamachi Tiradito was delightfully delicate, almost sushi like, and enhanced by a truffle mayonnaise and yuzu soy. The seared scallops were complimented by a tangy Nduja butter adding a touch of spice. We followed the recommendation to accompany these with a Mendoza Torrentes, which cut through the spice with the scallops while not overwhelming the lighter Hamachi. Just as Gaucho can do fish as well as meat, Argentina can do fresh white wines as well as blockbuster reds.
For all the alternatives, it seemed wrong to pick anything other than steak for the main course. The restaurant offers the full range of cuts, all sourced with a 100% carbon offset. We chose to move away from the standards and indulge in some of the speciality offerings. The Churrasco de Lomo, a spiral cut marinaded in garlic, parsley and olive oil and served rare was exceptionally tender and flavoursome. The Colita de Lomo fillet tail was, even when cooked medium, melt in the mouth delicious. On the side we added the truffle mac and cheese to the excellent chips, an accompaniment every bit as rich as the name implies. For those paying greater care to their waistlines the broccoli with confit garlic and roasted almonds and the spinach in garlic and lemon both provided an enhancement to the task of eating your greens. Now fIrmly back in traditional territory, Argentinian steak obviously required Argentinian malbec and the 2022 Crios from Susana Balbo did the job perfectly.
Dessert can be a struggle after nearly half a kilo of beef but the Salted Dulce de Leche cheesecake was just right, a firm caramel top with a crunchy biscuit bottom. The altogether richer Banana Nutellla pancake was as decadent as it sounds but lightened by the leche mousse. We were also tempted to that extra glass of wine to continue enjoying the ambience and the entertainment.
This new opening is a compelling proposition from Gaucho. If you want the standard steak and chips in a central London hotspot then obviously it fits the bill. However, the restaurant also offers the opportunity for a light lunch in the sunshine and, perhaps most temptingly, the opportunity for a late dinner that turns into dancing. Who knows, you may even find yourself tangoing through the tables.
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