It’s hard to reconcile but thirty years ago tapas bars were pretty niche. And having just returned from working in Madrid in the early 90’s I made a point of tracking them down. The ones that spring to mind are Mesón Don Filipe in Waterloo, El Metro on Fulham Broadway, La Rueda in Clapham, and of course El Pirata, Mayfair. What’s impressive is that they are all still around – including me.
But this is El Pirata’s moment to be in the spotlight as they celebrate thirty years as a Mayfair stalwart having endured recessions, lockdowns, and the stiffest of burgeoning competition. Invited to their celebration party, it had been a while since my last visit and I was keen to see how well they have kept pace with the likes of comparative newcomers José, Barrafina, Sabor and Brindisa.
Rosendo Simbana, originally from Ecuador, has been head chef for 19 years now, so you can be assured of consistency. His menu is absolutely what you’d expect with all the firm family favourites, plus a decent list of vegetarian options, all priced very well. Iberico Bellota Jamón is cut from the leg to order and the croquetas are made individually each day.
As we arrived, jamón-slicing was in full flow by the door (and theirs is of legend). It is a charming and authentic space that takes you on a journey to Spain, with old prints on the walls and flamenco music setting the scene. Arranged over two levels, it was heaving last night so we sat outside while the team brought round plates of deliciousness to the hoards, which included the following:
Mini Hamburguesas de Chorizo with a fried egg in little brioche buns, which were suitably messy and wholly worthwhile. Be careful – if the yolk doesn’t get you the chorizo juice surely will.
Mushroom croquetas – gooey and glorious, to me croquetas are the litmus test and these are top-tier. As for the squid ink croqueta, it’s like deep-fried paella and utterly off the scale.
Speaking of which, the Paella Marinera, with mussels, prawns and squid was extremely good.
Alcachofas a la Plancha (artichoke hearts in garlic) are so moreish I ate far too many, and we shared a small plate of the Jamón, which lived up to its reputation.
Brochetas of lamb and of chicken with chorizo whizzed past and were picked bare, and there was a constant flow of Padrón peppers, as well as Estrella Galicia.
If you enjoy this way of eating then El Pirata is for you. Good Spanish food should be inelegant, greasy, messy, convivial and delicious and, as with all tapas, never results in plate-envy as you share everything. It was great to be back and I intend to return soon. A big thank you to all the lovely ‘Pirates’ who gave us a wonderful night. Salud!
El Pirata can be found at 5-6 Down Street, Mayfair W1J 7AQ
Related: Modern Lebanese bakery ‘Common Breads’ opens in Belgravia
