The Peruvian Japanese restaurant that’s making a stir on Frith Street
IN SHORT:
Food: 8/10
Service: 9/10
Atmosphere: 8/10
Overall: 8/10
THE DETAIL:
Fusion cuisine likes to think of itself as a 70s invention of French chefs who included elements of Chinese and Vietnamese cuisine in to their menus, and which was then further popularised in New York and eventually London in the 1990s. But that classic viewpoint from New York and London is, if I may say, typically self-centered. The truth is that international influences have been traded and merged since ever, and nowhere more so than Latin America.
A perfect example is that when 19c Japan opened up to international trading, Peru was the first of their neighbours to establish relations – not an easy thing to do as viewers of Shogun will know! By the end of the century Japanese migrants were arriving in significant numbers such that Peru now has the largest diaspora in South America after Brazil. Some 200,000 Peruvians have Japanese ancestry and the cuisine that has evolved through the combination of local ingredients and Japanese culinary knowhow is referred to as ‘Nikkei’.
Which took me to Chotto Matte (‘Wait a moment’ in Japanese), a restaurant I walked past many times but but only last night I stepped into for the first time to try out their ‘Love January’ menu. A very moody cocktail bar draws you into the ground floor while the restaurant on the first floor wraps around an open-kitchen. A dark and atmospherc space, the interior design is pretty funky, and includes a wall of geometrical 60’s style panels with integrated lighting that makes it all feel soft and intimate. It’s a little bit Champs-Elysee if you know what I mean, but I like it. Even the staff are head to toe in black, which is obviously suitably Soho cool, albeit when you are my age makes them not always easy to see in this low light….
To get into character we started with a couple of their ‘Tokyo to Lima’ cocktails: Mine was a Pisco Sour; a Peruvian classic, it was as good as you’ll find. Elegant with warm smoky notes from the Pisco brandy sipped through the fluffy egg-white. And my guest’s was a Kumquat margarita, gently sweet and citrus-sharp; and neither was too sticky.
The Love January menu consists of nine individual dishes showcasing their Nikkei style: A chunky guacamole is served with a giant cracker made with cheese, rosemary oil and paprika, a great start to the meal, which comes with a a raw selection at the same time. Of these, the Sea bass Ceviche, was light, with balanced sweetness and acidity, Yellowtail ‘Nikkei Sashimi’ featuring cherry tomatoes, jalapeño, coriander and yuzu truffle sauce was surprisingly subtle since with peppers were without their fiery seeds. Tuna Takaki, karashi su miso and red jalapeño herb salsa, lightly seared, was sublime.
Next a moment of theatre, the waiter flames the Sato Maki at the table. Filled with sea bass, salmon tartare, pepper and soy, I could eat these all day. The Nikkei Gyoza, made with pork and prawn, and served with a sweet potato purée and red pepper ponzu, were fabulous.
Desert came in the form of black sesame ice cream. And if I am to be critical, this was the weakest link. Flavour-wise it was delicious, but the portion is very large and overwhelmingly grey (not a food colour as we know it). I got brain freeze half way through and quit.
Japanese-Peruvian fusion, It’s bloody good. Not to take anything away from Nobu, but who knew that it pre-dates Matsuhisa. So take a walk down the wild side of Frith Street where you will find that Chotto Matte is a vibey, dramatic venue, the food is exquisite and beautifully presented and the staff are charming and knowledgeable. So all in all, it’s a yes from me.
Chotto Matte is at 11 – 13 Frith Street, Soho, W1D 4RB
Email: [email protected]
Phone: 020 7042 7171
It is open seven days a week from 12:00 – 01:30
The Love January set menu costs £50 per person
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