There is no question that Soho Estates are proving to be one of central London’s great custodians, and their rejuvenation of the former wasteland around Centre Point at the Tottenham Court Road end of Oxford Street is a great example. While I will always miss watching bands from the bar on the upper tier of the old Apollo, there is a new, and immaculately furnished theatre, and on the Holborn side of Charing Cross Road some very interesting buildings. Part of this is a new block created from the northern side of the original Tin Pan Alley, Denmark Street, and called the Outernet. This is where Cavo is located, and in true Soho style the entrance can only be found by exploring newly created alleys and snickleways that fracture the block.
A lift then takes you to Cavo, which covers an enormous space: over 10,000 square foot with room for 240 diners together with a spectacular rooftop garden. The latter seems to me perfect for pre-dinner drinks in the summer or just drinks period. When I arrived there was a party going full swing with a very happy crowd enjoying cocktails and beers in the early evening sunshine while gargantuan plates of oysters and other wonderful seafood swayed through the crowd. It looked so good I thought about trying to blag my way in, but conscience prevailed and I headed through to dinner. And did not regret it.
The restaurant itself is well done, albeit perhaps over-spacious, with beautiful curved wood banquettes and elegant tables and chairs, all spaced by miniature olive trees. With respect to the food, Cavo describes itself as serving up a new style of Mediterranean dishes, with a raw fish and carpaccio bar and a wine list that “spans the Mediterranean old and the new”. I’m not sure that really captures it. Undoubtedly there are some interesting new takes on some dishes, but I think they are underselling what they really do well, which is some traditional and exceptionally good Mediterranean cooking.
We opted for the enticing tasting menu, which did not disappoint from the off. The amuse bouches consisted of oysters with a variety of sauces (why don’t all meals start with oysters?) and a velvety Baccala, here presented in the form of a salt cod mousse. Finally, there was a clever dish called Bigne ou Moules which comprised mussels and a little chilli encased in a choux pastry. Very clever, very moreish.
From thereon in, the tasting menu was served in the form of sharing plates rather than the usual procession of tiny little individual dishes. Personally I quite liked this approach as it provides opportunity for a rough and ready apportioning of each dish based on its appeal to each of you. First up was a perfect portion of pan-fried scallops in a rich buttery bisque, exactly the sort of serous, luxurious dish you want on a tasting menu.
This was then followed by a dish which perfectly encapsulated what I thought about Cavo. The dish was billed as tagliolini with 26-month aged parmesan and black truffle. Now confession time – I am jut not normally a pasta fan. Its fine, encapsulates cucina povera perfectly, but as compared to the great dishes of France let alone India, China or even Britain, what is the fuss about? This dish is what the fuss is about. It was creamy, earthy, pungent and utterly, utterly delicious. Forget new style cooking, this was a simple, perfect and completely wonderful pasta dish, and this alone is reason to go here.
But life and tasting menus do not stand still and next up was a Pluma Iberico, the famous cut of Iberico Pork, on a bed of perfectly seasoned mashed potato. Was it good? It was Pluma Iberico from the Josper and these guys can cook. Of course it, was good. Then a final piece of indulgence with a a whole lobster tail in a translucent sauce of tomato water and lovage herb oil. Excellent. Accompanied by greek chips (for which read crisps) seasoned with oregano and salt. Bring me more, ideally all you have available.
Then, at the end, a second dish to achieve the same as the tagliolini. Once again, not on paper one of my favourites. Cheesecake. But goodness this was the motherlode of all cheesecakes – rich crunchy base and a firm moist cake which gave the pleasure of eating something that was undeniably cheese but also unmistakably a pudding. Have never understood cheesecake before but now see the light.
For the record, the staff could not be nicer, and are clearly working hard to ensure everyone has a great time and build a reputation and repeat customers that can fill what is a very large restaurant. And they really are very nice so I hope they will get there. But for me, I’m already sold on a restaurant that can make me want to order pasta and cheesecake over scallops and lobster. Genuinely never thought it would happen.