Peter Emrys-Roberts
To me, Sunday roast is a religious observance. I’m not only a devout ‘C and E’ (Christmas and Easter), but I also feel the need to go out for a roast at least once a month. Recently, though, American dirty food influence has been tipped like gravy over our most hallowed feast – too fatty, too sloppy and just too much on the plate. So it was that set out to Shoreditch in search of a proper Sunday roast, English style.
This particular Sunday gathering was a 40th birthday lunch and ‘lost afternoon’ at Boundary Hotel in Shoreditch. We had booked the roast on the ground floor and a table on their roof terrace for cocktails afterwards.
Now it must be said that Redchurch Street is fashionable. Achingly so, in fact. Simultaneously cool yet hot. Still, there is nothing intimidating about this venue, its staff or its clientele. The design and décor are light, warm and relaxed as is the welcome. We were first in so I had a pint from the bar while the blonde ordered a remedial Bloody Mary. This is served with all the accessories and made with their ‘secret bloody house mix’ giving it a paler more natural look, and it packs a punch.
The sun streamed through the window as the roasts arrived at the table. Yes, there was the option of starters, including Maldon rock oysters, charcuterie and beef carpaccio, but we were here on a strict mission and skipped to the good bit.
Between us, we ordered roast chicken, pork belly and 35-day-aged beef. Each came with duck fat roasted potatoes, honey-glazed carrots, cauliflower cheese, seasonal greens, Yorkshire pudding and an individual gravy boat. I particularly enjoyed the balance and quantity of the various elements on the plate. Nothing too daunting yet it is still like a feast. The stand-out was the cauliflower cheese, which was exceptional with a golden and generous crust of cheddar.
The chicken was perfectly nice – well cooked and moist, yet ultimately underwhelming. The Pork belly was on point with a 50/50 split flesh-to-fat ratio and crusty crackling. But their star turn is the beef. Cut about a centimetre thick, it is pink and tender and as good as any I have tried.
Had we still had room for any, their dessert menu consisted of chocolate delice with strawberry sorbet, tiramisu with marsala wine, Eton mess with seasonal berries, a cheese board selection with crackers and homemade chutney, and an ice cream selection, all priced well.
Instead, we relocated to their magical roof terrace on this glorious and thirst-inspiring September afternoon. It is a wonderful space with views of the evening sun and the cocktails and staff were equally excellent.
In short, this is my kind of roast, this is my kind of rooftop bar. A short walk from home, Boundary is going to become a regular and indulgent habit – we loved it. A big thank you to Andreus and Mikey who served us downstairs and to Alex for ably plying us with booze on the roof terrace. Boundary – chapeau!
Boundary is located on the corner of Boundary Street and Redchurch Street London E2 7DD and booking is recommended for both the roast and the terrace.
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