It may be a sign of my age and/or my upbringing, but curry was definitely an evening food for much of my life, and the notion of it being “bottomless” would have carried the implication of copious amounts of lager. However, times change and tastes become more refined. Dishoom has done good business as a result of persuading people to eat Indian food before the pubs open and now Belgravia’s Kahani are offering their own bottomless brunch.
Under head chef Peter Joseph, once of Tamarind, Kahini has sought to move away from the heavy sauces traditionally associated with much Indian cooking in the UK towards a lighter style, focussed on the robata grill and tandoor. This makes it perfectly suited for lunchtime eating. Located just off Sloane Street, the elegant dining room adds to the sense of lightness. Despite being located downstairs, it is high-ceilinged and airy so you quickly forget you’re actually in a basement. It pulls off the neat trick of feeling swanky without being overly formal.
The brunch menu consists of 4 courses, each containing two dishes designed to be shared. Kahani has expanded the concept of bottomless beyond the accompanying prosecco to include the food itself, meaning dishes can be shared amongst groups of up to 6 and refills sought of anything that proves particularly popular.
To start, a Kolkata beetroot chop was a take on the popular Bengali street food. The beetroot is fried in a casing of bread crumbs mixed with ginger, fennel and royal cumin seeds. The latter in particular really cuts through with the edge being taken off by a gentle kasundi mustard kadi sauce. With this was a refreshing cold dish of spiced chickpeas balanced with a sweetened yoghurt and a wild berry and tamarind chutney and some biscuit to provide additional crunch. A side dish of Keema Naan with a delicious, slightly sweet, smoked tomato chutney was used to mop the plate clean.
From there we moved to the grill. The tender Tandoori chicken with Kachumber salad was incredibly flavoursome with a collection of spices and red and yellow chili being used alternately, the former providing a particular kick. This came with grilled broccoli with a honey and yoghurt dressing that again imparted some sweetness and gave the broccoli a rich flavour.
The main courses were a Karaikudi chicken, simmered with fennel and coriander that really came through on the palate, and a Paneer tossed with peppers, onions and more coriander with some extra heat provided by chilli. These came with a very creamy black lentil dahl, Pulao rice and roti that left us increasingly full. However, there is always room for pudding and the Gulab Jamun was the perfect summer pudding, a moist sweet doughnut with vanilla ice cream and strawberries to provide a fresh British twist.
The jury is still out on whether prosecco is the ideal accompaniment to Indian food, and the case can always be made for lager. That said, fizz provides a sense of occasion, particularly in surroundings like Kahani, and the slight sweetness provides a counterpoint to the spice in the food.
The food is absolutely delicious, light enough to be perfect lunchtime fayre but packed full of flavour, with spices and chilli used to enhance the taste without overwhelming either the ingredients or the eater. It’s also generous – we didn’t need to take them up on the offer of repeat courses, although when shared amongst a larger group refills might be required. The friendly and attentive staff were also more than happy to give us time between courses to catch our breath so you are afforded every opportunity to make the most of the offering. All in all, a great way to enjoy this restaurant without having to wait for the pubs to close.
Kahani, 1 Wilbraham Place, London SW1X 9AE.
Bottomless brunch Thurs-Sat 12.00-14.00, Sun 12.30-16:00 Food £45, Food with Prosecco £65
