EXCERPT: A breath of the Aegean on the King’s Road, Chelsea.
IN BRIEF: Buzzing atmosphere, fantastic Aegean food, varied menu and generous portions.
- Food: 8 / 10
- Service: 8 / 10
- Atmosphere: 9 / 10
- Overall: 8 / 10
IN DETAIL:
Bottarga is the latest venture of the dynamic Pachamama Group and brings a taste of the Aegean Islands to the King’s Road in Chelsea.
The western end of the King’s Road is a somewhat transitional place. Notwithstanding recent developments of swizzy apartment blocks aimed at the uber-rich people from nowhere (admittedly probably all dentists from Kuala Lumpur, but you know what I mean), it still presents a surprisingly gritty tail end that is at odds with the languid old school glamour of the Sloane Square end.
So not too long ago the idea of opening a buzzy, high end bistro close to the World’s End Tavern would be verging on bold. But the times they are-a-changing, and since opening in 2024 Bottarga has shone like a bright light in the mists of this emerging area.
Bottarga is set back off the King’s Road, adjacent to the Moravian Close, a largely forgotten set of buildings which formed the stable block and part of the gardens of the “Great House’’ on the 27 acre estate which Sir Thomas More, the Lord Chancellor and luminary of King Henry VIII, purchased in Chelsea in 1524. Unfortunately, Sir Thomas More was only able to enjoy this fine property until 1535 when he was executed on Tower Hill following his conviction on charges of treason.
I suspect Bottarga will make a better fist of surviving here than he did, and is already a magnet for young hipsters on the London scene seemingly attracted by a combination of Bottarga’s profile on Instagram and word of mouth.
Bottarga’s instant success may, of course, have been helped by the fact that it replaced the popular Chicama, a restaurant which the Pachamama Group opened on the same site in 2016 and which served Peruvian inspired seafood until it closed in September 2024.
It has a warm, Instagram-friendly interior with a rustic Mediterranean feel offering a cosy contrast to the wintry conditions outside. The candlelight tables invite intimacy and seat couples and small groups of young fashionistas. The stylish bar counter overlooks the bustling open plan kitchen. It also benefits from a covered outside dining area complete with heaters. In further evidence of the evolution of Chelsea, it is not a place with the velvet banquettes of old bistros, but rather an Alpine lodge transported to the King’s Road, and filled with matching basic furniture. Although to be fair, I suspect most modern Chelsea residents spend more time on the ski slopes than in the clubs if St.James’s.
But down to the stuff that matters: the food, and it is exceptional. A varied menu of Greek or Greek inspired favourites are offered up in portions that seem more aimed at well fed old time Chelsea residents than waist conscious fashionistas. Warm, fluffy pitta bread is accompanied by a choice of irresistible spreads, notably a spicy feta and red pepper chimichurri and tzatziki alongside a smorgasbord of high quality olive oils.
The mezze is extensive and boasts a range of flavours from salty, oily Greek olives, padron peppers gently rolled in smoked chilli salt to large, tender calamari rings in chilli jam mayo.
Turning to the main courses, the Greek feta salad is an excellent accompaniment to the bluefin tuna with soft roasted red peppers and lemon. The stand-out dish is, however, the Bottarga Orzo, where pasta puts on a costume and pretends to be rice, all the better to absorb a spicy Mediterranean pasta which seems almost infused with the flavour of the sea.
You should heed the pleading of your waiter to try pudding, in particular the chocolate burnt cheesecake – replete with the taste of salted caramel – which is a delicious counterpoint to Bottarga’s range of piquant cocktails, including the fabulously named “margarita icarus” (an obvious combination of Bird’s Eye, Habanero chili, citrus and kumquat….).
Bottarga’s team accommodates without hesitation the requirements of those who are allergic to gluten or gluten intolerant. Whilst Bottarga is not exactly inexpensive, it is very reasonable in the context of dining off the King’s Road, and looking to the future, seems to me to offer a welcome glimpse of the past: an elegant fun restaurant in Chelsea serving great food to couples, elderly residents and groups of twentysomethings alike. Who knew. That’s what Chelsea was like when I was a child, and it’s great to see it coming back.
All photographs © Jessica Wang
Bottarga’s address is 383 King’s Road, London SW10 0LP. Bottarga serves lunch from 12pm – 3.30pm and dinner from 5.30pm – 10.30pm throughout the week. Reservations may be made here.