Number 16 Albermarle Street has a history and form for innovative food. The previous venue here was Indian Accent, a branch of Manish Mohetra’s high-end modern Indian fusion mini-chain that started in New Delhi and has been something of a success in New York. I particularly loved the ghee roast lamb with roomali roti which with its cucumber slices was a very interesting and novel Indian version of Cantonese duck pancakes. I always enjoyed Indian Accent and was quite sad when, I presume, the lockdowns brought its residence in London to an end.
Into the breach has stepped Cyril Lignac, much much-feted Parisien chef who has acquired the “French Naked Chef” moniker on the other side of the Chanel, opening Bar des Prés at the same address. His principal place is Restaurant Le Quinzième, which has a Michelin star, and he also has a brasserie and a couple of bakeries spread across the 11th and 16th arrondissements as well as a workshop, Cuisine Attitude, in the 3rd arrondissement which provides cooking and pastry classes. Inevitably, he presents TV cooking shows, including the French version of the Great British Bakeoff, and has published more than 40 cookbooks. So he is Grand Nouvelle indeed.
Now to Bar des Prés. Despite the classical French name, the food is really Japanese with a French sensibility. And that’s a label which brings to mind expensive, exquisite and beautiful plates comprising the most expensive ingredients that can be found. Which is handy as that is exactly what you get: for example “Black cod caramélisé au miso”; “Tiradito de saumon, gelée tosazu, vinaigrette yuzu” – salmon tiradito, tosazu jelly, yuzu vinaigrette; and “Bar mariné, yuzu, miso séché, piment rocoto” – marinated Seabass, yuzu, dry miso, rocoto. These are very elegant, precise dishes that do indeed fuse the two great culinary traditions.
We had Saumon label rouge, avocat, jalepeno and siracha – with the siracha expertly restrained to allow the salmon to come through and Yellowtail marinated in Thai vinaigrette. Both as delicious as they sound. After the marinated seabass mentioned above, we were offered what to me was the standout dish of an excellent lunch: “Galette craquante, tourteau au curry Madras, avocat” – Crunchy crab & avocado galette, Madras curry. Maybe it was the inadvertent homage to Indian Accent, but this was a dish whose clearly defined flavour and delicious ingredients made me wish for portions of a larger size than those offered here.
The meat course of Filet de bœuf aux épices saté, condiment citron vert – satay beef fillet, lime condiment was excellent, and very Mayfair, but even it was almost put into the shade by the epic, and I mean epic, vanilla mashed potato. The stuff of dreams. To round it all we had some truly French patisserie: vanilla mille-feuille with pecan nut praline.
Overall, it is inarguable that this is very good, sometimes genuinely memorable, cooking. It is also sort of perfect for the location in the heart of Mayfair. It is expensive, perfect and luxurious while posing no danger to the waistlines of my lunch companions. By fusing French and Japanese traditions it does not compete with the proliferation of mind-bogglingly expensive (and utterly addictive) basement sushi joints over recent years, while adding flavours that should find favour with the international crowd. It’s a destination restaurant that will be on lots of people’s lists. It is, in short, really very good indeed. Bienvenue a Londres Chef Lignac. It’s great to have you here.
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