IN SHORT:
- Food: 9.5/10
- Service: 9.5/10
- Atmosphere: 9/10
- Overall: 9.5/10
THE DETAIL:
If France were square (and it’s not) the southern coastal regions are cleanly bifurcated by the Rhône estuary. That which lies to its west leans increasingly towards the Spanish, including bull rings and the popular rhythm combo Gypsy Kings. And to the east, the flavour becomes ever more Italian, the Marseillaise even contesting that they own pizza. So it is that the ‘French Mediterranean cuisine’ of Bagatelle, aligned with the French Riviera, includes Italian references including pasta.
Having arrived for an early sitting at 6:45, we were afforded the chance to appreciate the newly refurbished interiors by renowned French designer Sam Baron. It has a simplicity and warmth that is modest yet refined. And each table has a clever freestanding spotlight that can be adjusted by the diners, adding sparkle to the glasses, food and flatware.
We tried their Signature Menu, with three starters, four mains and three deserts to share between two. Each course is brought to the table and served continuously throughout the meal should you wish. It was a lot to eat, but the individual dishes were small, delicious and elegant.
With ten plates to sample, I’ll cut to the quick. The three starters were perfect on every level; balanced, complimentary and pretty on the plate, with the salad taking the podium for flavour and texture.
The gnocchi was the only disappointment with the main courses only because I’m not that keen on gnocchi (a late substitution for tiny raviolis ‘del Plin’) though the presence of truffle shavings was their redemption. Lamb chops are always a favourite and these were plump, maillard-brown, and pink in the middle just as I would have them. The mezzi rigatoni with veal was a delight, but seabass with fennel was the standout dish just for the simplicity of the flavours, cooked to the very second of perfection.
Lubrication was ably provided by a bottle of Villa Cocceia from the Lazio region; biological and medium-bodied, it paired well across the menu.
Sweet cocktails and puds are rarely my go-to, so I defer to my guest’s take that the cocktails were excellent, the brioche cake and the macha soufflé were fabulous, and she took the remains of their signature golden chocolate bar home. Sweet!
We attended Bagatelle to sample the cuisine but it is also well known for its ‘joie de vivre’. There is very much the sense of half time at the end of the first sitting, the point at which those with children or a commute to the suburbs slip away to make room for the second half, the young and beautiful who come above all for the party. The DJ starts to gradually raise the volume and the beats by fractions become increasingly dirtier. I’m not sure quite what they mean by ‘open till late’ but I’m pretty sure it will be a long night and the crowd raucous. Bagatelle is to dining what Nikki Beach is to beach clubs (without the towels, obviously). Both groups started in the USA and have outposts in all the most glamorous locations worldwide and attract the moneyed see-and-be-seen crew.
So if conspicuous consumption is your thing then ‘the second half’ will very much be your gig. But if you just want to try their delicious menu and enjoy their exceptional service come along for ‘the first half’.
Bagatelle is at 34 Dover St, London W1S 4NG
Opening hours:
Monday-Friday 6:30 – Late
Saturday 12:40-5 & 6:30 – Late
Sunday 7:30 – Late
Related: Basque chicken and English wine feature at new Rye restaurant