Walking from Soho to Fitzrovia, there is a palpable buzz in the air as revellers bask in the spring sun outside the many bars and pubs that line the streets of the West End.
Over the past few years, the resurgence of Italian small plate and trattoria-style venues has been a welcome revival for anyone who enjoys the authentic taste of Italy, with the likes of Notto, Bancone, Brutto and Lina Stores being notable examples.
Opened in 2018 on Goodge Street, Al Dente Il Pastificio, which is the first of what are now four Roman hand-made pasta restaurants, is a 30-seat venue which also offers takeaway as an option for the many nearby office workers, tourists and locals at both lunch and dinner time.
The decor is clean and stripped back, with some well-placed pasta recipe books, pasta machines and a clear menu board above the open kitchen, where all the food is cooked to order, taking pride of place.
Bookings can be made for groups of four for dinner and throughout the day on the weekends. Apart from that, the restaurant operates a no-reservations policy.
After being enthusiastically greeted by Roman native Paolo, I got stuck into a perfectly baked selection of bread that was served with Umbrian Extra Virgin Olive Oil, showcasing a perfect balance of pepper and fruit.
A plate of Arancini followed, comprising of six crispy rice balls with three different fillings, Cacio e pepe (cheese and black Pepper), Beef ragu’ and Amatriciana.
Of the three, the latter was by far the most intriguing.
Guanciale (cured pork cheek), tomato sauce and pecorino cheese created a delightfully juxtapose texture between melted cheese and al dente rice.
They came with a pecorino, garlic and black pepper sauce – essentially more cacio-e-pepe – that made everything it touched a better version of itself.
The wine list is one of the best value for money I have seen in years, with a Prosecco and four white and red wines by the glass starting at £6.50, going up to £7.50 a glass with bottles ranging from £29-£60.
There is also a selection of beers by the bottle, soft drinks and a Negroni available at a more than reasonable £11.
I had the Gavi di Gavi la Contessa with my bread and starters which was a refreshingly crisp wine with exotic fruit, peaches and pineapples and not overly acidic, which many wines can be at that price point.
For mains, I was going to try a couple of dishes, before being alerted to the fact the pasta dishes are between 160g – 180g each, depending on the pasta type!
I opted for one of my favourite pasta dishes, ‘Spaghettoni alla Carbonara’, which consisted of the classic combination of Guanciale, free-range eggs, pecorino cheese and black pepper.
The pasta was cooked ‘al dente’ – anything less would have been unacceptable considering the name – while the guanciale was crunchy, which gave a good counterbalance mouth-feel to the delightful and unctuous egg, cheese and black pepper sauce. I thankfully saved most of my focaccia to mop up the sauce.
I matched this dish with yet another bargain of a wine, the Sabazio Rosso di Montepulciano, La Braccesca at £7.50. This had plenty of dark berry fruits and enough structure and acidity to stand up to the spice, salt and richness of the dish.
Despite being quite full I wanted to try the Cannolo Siciliano, which was huge! A crispy shell and lots and lots of cream which is what it should be. Perhaps next time I will share my pudding.
With their Monument site opened in 2019, South Kensington in 2022 and opening in April 2024 on Upper Street in Angel you can now enjoy their dishes in Central, South West, North and the City of London.
The food is very, very well priced with generous portions. My bread selection was £4, my Arancini was £9.50, pasta dish £10.95 and my cannolo was £6.50.
Gluten Free Pasta is also available for a £2 supplement.
I shall certainly be back to try more and more of this menu.
Al Dente Il Pastificio Fitzrovia, 51 Goodge St, London W1T 1TG
OPENING HOURS
Monday to Thursday: 11:30 am – 10:30 pm
Friday: 11:30 am – 11:00 pm
Saturday: 12:00 pm – 11:00 pm
Sunday: 12:00 pm – 10:30 pm
