To begin, make the gougères.
Pre-heat the oven to 220C/Gas 7 and line two baking sheets with greaseproof paper.
Add the water, butter and a pinch of salt to a medium saucepan and bring to a boil.
Add the flour to the pan and stir to combine, using a spatula or wooden spoon. Stir continuously until a dough forms and leaves a dry film on the bottom of the pan. This can take upwards of 5 minutes.
Transfer the dough to a stand mixer with a paddle attachment and mix on a low speed for 5 minutes. (Alternatively mix by hand, which will take longer).
Add one egg to the bowl, increase the speed of the mixer, and mix until completely incorporated. Repeat with the other eggs, adding one at a time.
Add the cheese and ham to the dough and stir in with a spoon.
Use a tablespoon to form rounded dough balls and place them on the sheet pans at least 2 inches apart as they’ll rise while cooking. Sprinkle with a crack of black pepper and place in the oven.
Cook for 20-25 minutes or until golden brown, transferring the baking sheets between shelves half way through cooking. Leave to cool slightly before serving.
While the gougères are cooking, make the beer soup.
Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the shallots. Cook over medium-low heat until soft.
As the shallots begin to take on some colour, add the breadcrumbs and stir to combine with the shallots and butter.
Season with a generous pinch of salt then add the beer. Bring to the boil and cook for 3-5 minutes until the alcohol smell has calmed down, then add the stock alongside a generous amount of white pepper, more salt, and the brown sugar.
Simmer for 20-25 minutes, then blend until smooth.
Return to the pan and stir in the crème fraiche. Transfer to bowls and sprinkle with a little grated nutmeg and top with one of the warm ham and cheese gougères.