I feel slightly guilty about writing this review of The Regency Café. Not because it is not worthy of a place among the list of proper caffs. It certainly deserves that and much more. Rather it is because it is already acquiring some considerable fame, probably helped by its Instagram-friendly art deco exterior and interior. It’s a beautiful place.
But the price of that fame has been that on recent visits I had a ten-minute plus queue to place an order, and the clientele has that feel of the modern international traveller – the locals having been joined by lots of Chinese and Americans. This place has been properly discovered.
Which is not necessarily a bad thing – it makes any demise for financial reasons now a near impossibility. It’s just that if you are one of the locals who has been going there for years then it’s a bit more of a pain than it used to be. Anyway, last time I went it was at 1pm so I have only myself to blame. Mid-morning is much less of a rush.
They also do things efficiently. You have to queue to place your order – no table service, which is consistent with proper caff principles – and trying to “reserve” a particular table before you have placed your order if frowned upon if not necessarily actively prohibited. I will occasionally risk it if a particularly sought-after table is free by putting a book or my glasses down on that table, albeit only once I am near the front of the queue.
Once you get there, the ordering system is of legend. The breakfast options are extensive, but most result in the teller shouting an order at the kitchen such as “Set bubble” or “Set mushrooms”. Which translates as the set breakfast plus bubble and squeak or mushrooms respectively.
And the set breakfast is very good value: one egg, two rashers of bacon and sausage, plus beans or tomatoes, bread or toast and tea or coffee for £6.95. Note however that while you can add extras they do not allow for substitutions and they mean it. You can even get an egg and two bacon rashers for £3.30 or egg, bacon and sausage for £4.30. That’s extraordinarily good value, and even more so when you consider its location round the corner from the tourist hotspots of Parliament and Westminster Abbey.
The quality is also high – excellent bacon and sausage, with the former perhaps a little soft for personal taste but good quality meat. The chips are crisp and copious. The eggs are cooked to perfection. Toast is doorstop-sized and thick as a book.
Personally, I have never ventured beyond the breakfast menu, but some items there are deservedly popular – homemade steak pie and chips (£6.95!) and the chicken escalope with chips or spaghetti. There are also popular rotating daily lunch and dinner specials: Monday – Braised Steak; Tuesday – Shepherds Pie; Wednesday -Weekly Curry; Thursday – Fresh Roast Pork; and Friday – Fresh Fish & Chips. All at about the seven-quid mark. Finally, there is usually a proper English pudding on offer: think bread and butter pudding or spotted dick.
Finally, take a look at the photos and as I said at the beginning, you can marvel at the sheer beauty of it. You have to go to this place once even if just to see it. Add to that proper food at bargain prices and I guarantee you’ll be back.
The Regency Café,17-19 Regency St Westminster, London SW1P 4BY – 020 7821 6596
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