British game season is in our midst, giving diners a chance to lap up the rich, wild flavours that make their way to plates across the capital.
While the official British Game Week doesn’t arrive until early November, Grouse Season traditionally begins in mid-August and is followed by partridge, deer and pheasant.
Restaurants tend to add special dishes to their menu from the beginning of the season, and things just get better from thereon out.
We take a look at the best places in London to celebrate one of the most cherished seasons in the culinary calendar.
Rules was established by Thomas Rule in 1798 making it the oldest restaurant in London. It serves traditional British food, specialising in classic game cookery, oysters, pies and puddings.
Rules is fortunate enough to own an estate in the High Pennines, “England’s last wilderness”, which supplies training in game management for the staff, exercising its own quality controls and determining how the game is treated.
Below is a wonderful example of how that works its way through to the restaurant.
Roast grouse is served with rainbow chard, chicken liver parfait and a blackberry vinaigrette.
Rules, 34-35 Maiden Ln, London WC2E 7LB
At Quo Vadis, the historic Soho restaurant and members’ club on Dean Street, Scottish chef Jeremy Lee rarely gives game season short shrift.
Regarded as serving some of the best British food in the capital, the iconic central London restaurant never fails to charm, reassure and delight, as Lee once stated.
The smoked eel sandwich is a signature, and his puddings are legendary.
But during the game season, you can’t go wrong with the pie of the day, which holds pride of place in its own box on the menu.
“The price never changes,” says Lee. “It is always £19.50.” No matter whether it’s chicken, lamb, beef, kid or game, there’s “almost always a suet crust atop.”
Quo Vadis, 26-29 Dean St, London, W1D 3LL
Kitchen W8, located just off Kensington High Street, was launched in 2009 by co-owners Rebecca Mascarenhas and Phil Howard, with Chef Mark Kempson in charge of the kitchen. Charlie Edwards heads up the front-of-house team.
The 60-seat restaurant, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2011 and has retained it every year since, has gained a reputation for professional consistency and flair, with both the menus and service making it a firm favourite in the Kensington neighbourhood, as well as to a wider gastronomic clientele.
Kitchen W8 runs an initiative offering its diners fine wines like Puligny Montrachet and Saint-Emilion by the glass at cost price – a different bottle or magnum is opened every week – giving people the chance to try wines they may only have dreamed of. And, on Sunday evenings, it offers free corkage to its diners(1 bottle per person, up to a maximum of 4 bottles per booking).
Kitchen W8 is all about integrity, simplicity and conviviality, and that shows on its game season menus.
Kitchen W8, 11-13 Abingdon Rd, London, W8 6AH
Priding itself on rich flavours, innovative ideas and perfectly executed dishes, The Jugged Hare is proud to present a unique and eclectic menu this game season.
Featuring new special dishes including Game Eclairs and Kentucky Fried Pheasant, the gastro pub is excited to serve up dishes with a twist this August. The more adventurous diners can wash down their food with a new, limited edition hare infused Gin. Distilled with real hares and served from mid August, this hearty Gin and Tonic packs a punch if you’re brave enough to try.
Encouraging guests to try something new, The Jugged Hare will also be launching ‘Game Scholar Cards’ throughout the season where diners are invited to tick off the different variations of game they have tried to be in with the chance of winning different edible prizes.
And that’s not all The Jugged Hare has to offer, there’s a host of special events taking place throughout the season to surprise and delight.
The Jugged Hare, 49 Chiswell St, London, EC1Y 4SA
Celebrate the start of the glorious shooting season at acclaimed chef Vivek Singh’s modern fine dining Indian restaurant The Cinnamon Club. Set in the striking Grade II Westminster Library, enjoy Vivek’s innovative Indian take to the resolutely British classic game, with his flavourful chargrilled grouse breast with ‘Achari’ spices, Tawa mince with fenugreek and mustard greens (£35). The perfect spiced game dish to be enjoyed against the magnificently majestic setting, amongst the restaurant’s book-lined shelves.
The Cinnamon Club, The Old Westminster Library, Great Smith Street, London SW1P 3BU
Yaatra, the renowned modern-Indian restaurant situated in the Old Westminster Fire Station, has created an exclusive Glorious Twelfth menu. Drawing inspiration from rich historical significance and cherished British traditions, this limited-edition menu celebrates the essence of game season. Available from 12th – 26th August, guests are invited to indulge in a unique Grouse culinary experience, complemented by an exceptional selection of rare vintage libations.
Executive chef Amit Bagyal and the culinary team have brought back the tradition of “Savouries,” in the form of Rarebit a la Grouse. This course is specially crafted to reignite the palate with sharp, salty and spicy flavours, acting as an interlude between the sweet pudding and dessert. Yaatra’s modern twist on this age-old tradition combines the succulent taste of shredded Grouse with the saltiness of a Rarebit cheese sauce topped on sourdough.
The centrepiece of the menu is the exquisite star-anise flavoured confit Grouse leg, accompanied by a spiced Grouse croquette and topped with a rich coconut sauce. The perfect culinary ode to the celebration of Grouse season.
Yaatr, 4 Greycoat Pl, London, SW1P 1SB
L’Escargot, the legendary French culinary gem in Soho, will be serving Grouse à la anglaise from Tuesday, 15th August. This will be accompanied by Game chips (Pommes gaufrettes), Heart shaped crouton with grouse liver pate, Bread sauce, Fried breadcrumbs, Grouse jus and Lamb’s lettuce salad with lemon dressing. Priced at £48.
Set in the heart of Soho, L’Escargot holds the distinction of being one of the oldest and most celebrated fine dining restaurants in London for nearly 100 years. This iconic French restaurant is renowned for its charm, elegance, impeccable service and the excellence of its traditional French cuisine.
Get game-season-ready and head to some of South West London’s favourite neighbourhood spots The Apollo Arms, Ganymede and The Hunter’s Moon for a selection of special grouse offerings. Available for lunch and dinner across all three Lunar Pub Co sites, enjoy a starter of grouse paté served alongside damson jam and toasted brioche (£14). Whilst for a meaty main, dive into roast grouse breast with hispi cabbage, indulgent sautéed fois gras, pommes sarladaises, all finished with an indulgent truffle and Madeira jus (£36).
The Apollo Arms (Clapham), Ganymede (Belgravia), The Hunter’s Moon (South Kensington)
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