London is awash with brunch these days, and I for one am a huge fan. It’s the perfect opportunity to catch up with friends in an unhurried and indulgent meal that may even spill over into a lost afternoon. Typically following the New York approach, it should deliver a carefully balanced sequence of all seven flavours, salt, sweet, bitter, umami, sour, fat and spice.
The Southbank Centre isn’t the obvious location to go for brunch since most of its restaurants focus on feeding theatregoers. But with a large and sunny terrace overlooking the Thames, La Gamba is quite an enticing option, and is one of only a couple of independently owned offers in an otherwise chain-operated environment. I have long been a fan of Applebee’s restaurant in Borough Market so it was a pleasure to try this, their more recent venture, which explores the famous cuisine of Galicia. The sense of a family business very much succeeds in translating to their team, who are all very warm and friendly, and set the perfect tone for a food-sharing experience. Based on a turquoise and timber colour theme, the interior provides an attractive backdrop against which food may sing. I was also delighted by the dinnerware, both rustic yet modern, which takes the food seriously.
One of the great benefits of this brunch is that it’s a fixed menu, so there’s practically no decision-making required. A jug of sangria to share comes with the meal in red, white or sparkling. We stood firmly by the red and it was suitably light, fruity and sticky.
A plate of Padrón peppers brought an edge of chance (and occasionally, spice) to the table alongside pan con tomate, toasted sourdough piled with delicious, sweet, grated tomato with a smear of garlic and olive oil. Both very good versions of Spanish staples.
I particularly enjoyed the sobrasada, a soft form of sausage which is spread on sourdough with goat’s chees and honey – a relatively rare dish to find in London, and a real pleasure.
Eggs feature in two forms; a perfectly nice tortilla of the day, in our case made with sweet peppers. And the hangover cure that is huevos rotos con chorizo, comprising chunks of potato and chorizo fried off and mixed together, with fried eggs draped across the top. Think ‘full English’ with garlic and paprika, and it too was very good.
The roasted aubergine with romesco sauce, goat’s cheese and hazelnuts has a guest-star appearance from pesto, which in my opinion was a triumph.
Pudding wise, you are afforded a choice between two very sweet and creamy desserts, which I felt was too much of the same. My preference was the burnt Basque cheesecake, though to have had the option of their churros y chocolate would have been wonderful.
If you are tired of eggs benedict then La Gamba presents a great alternative – I know that I will be back again soon, and next time with sufficient companions that we can add in some tapas and drinks from the main menu, which would be a fun way to brunch.
