Food and Drink

Bar Antoine at the Four Seasons: For relaxed luxury par excellence

Connecting Hyde Park and Marble Arch, Park Lane has long been associated with luxury, quality, prime property and grand hotels. 

As a child playing Monopoly being the first to land on the royal blue Park Lane was a thrill that made you feel like a mini property mogul. 

As an adult, visiting the hotels in and around Park Lane are experiences of luxury with a feel of having a treat and seeing how the other half lives.

The Four Seasons is certainly one of those properties.

With the entrance on Hamilton Place Park Lane you are welcomed by the smiling doormen and immediately take in the signature scent in the lobby.

Chef Yannick Alléno is a name that is revered within the food world as the 4th most Michelin-awarded chef on earth with 15 stars. Using fermentation and extraction techniques to modernise the classic dishes he grew up cooking in French bistros and restaurants.  

Most famed for the Pavyllon Ledoyen in Paris, his London outpost of this restaurant Pavyllon holds a Michelin Star, with the kitchen the centre of the show with counter seating alongside classic table dining.  

But where does one go for a relaxed, luxury experience in one of London’s grand hotels? 

Bar Antoine is the answer, this is an ever-smiling tribute to Chef Yannick’s late son, which is a cheers to life, love, and the pursuit of joy! 

Bar Antoine, to the left of Pavyllon is the bar and lounge offering at the Four Seasons which has a mix of starters referred to as ‘creative bites’ and classic bar food mains called ‘essentials’ as well as a selection of Caviar Prunier for those wanting to splash out, with a plat du jour selection for those wanting more restaurant-style dishes, and finally two desserts to keep the sweet tooth happy. 

It’s easy for hotel menus to read like an everything-to-everyone list, which is usually an attempt to please all and sundry who may visit over the course of the year. Bar Antoine manages to navigate this pitfall with a 1-page menu that doesn’t feel overwhelming and has enough variety to intrigue diners. 

Bar Antoine has a mix of counter seating at the oblong bar for drinkers as well as lower copper tables and comfortable green sofas for those having either drinks or food and drink. A small and private alcove seating behind the bar is perfect for those on a date and the newly opened terrace is going to be a massive hit over the summer months. 

The drinks menu has been put together by Head Mixologist Michele Lombardi and Bar Manager Ivan Arena. They are using the same extraction techniques that chef Yannick has become famed for with his food creations on their cocktail menu.

I visited on World Cocktail Day this year excited to try the drinks menu in what is described on the menu as a World class bar. My guest who is certainly a cocktail connoisseur looked at the menu alongside myself and we both agreed, it read very well, with a list of signature cocktails that are clever and new twists on classic drinks, as well as a G&T list which comes with or without alcohol, in a trend of menus offering both of these options that you will see more and more and will become the norm in years to come. 

My guest ordered the Relentless (£24) which has Patron Añejo Tequila, Fino Sherry, Grapefruit Cryo® which is an extraction of grapefruit, Italicus Bergamot liqueur, London Essence Peach & Jasmine Soda and a Beetroot Cloud.  

This was a delightfully balanced, fresh and crisp, yet earthy long drink which captured all of the flavours in the drink perfectly and is such a great aperitif. 

I had the Sesame Old Fashioned (£32) being a fan of both an Old Fashioned and anything with sesame, I had high expectations. Using The Macallan 12 Double Cask (instead of Bourbon), Sesame Oil, Maple, Fig Leaves, Oloroso Sherry and Vanilla Bitter. I was not disappointed, this was an incredibly elegant, yet punchy drink which is what an Old Fashioned should be, getting the dilution, sweetness whilst still letting the Whisky shine through is incredibly difficult to do, the team here have absolutely nailed it! Having that with the sesame oil to cut through and bring a wonderful roasted element to it has made this one of the best cocktails I have had this year as well as certainly one of the best Old Fashioneds I have ever had. 

Our second round which was had with the food was the Penicillin Nouveau (£26) Hennessy VSOP Cognac, Los Siete Misterios Mezcal, a Miso Ginger Honey, Lucano Anniversario Amaro, Rinomato Bianco Vermouth and Milk Whey making this a spiced milk punch with a smoky background alongside the nice bitter edge of amaro all brought together with the bright acidity of the whey.

The Pe-Ti-T-Punch (£23) is a take on the Martinque staple the Ti Punch which is Agricole Rhum, lime and sugar has Santa Teresa 1796 Rum, Mancino Secco Vermouth, Pandan infused Daiginjo Genshu Sake and Sparkling Tea. This was a much more delicate offering than my old fashioned, and I probably should have ordered this first as it was a thirst-quenching long drink served in a large wine glass with an ice ball. I am looking forward to another one of these on the terrace with the sun shining on a lazy afternoon. 

For our food we ordered a full selection of creative bites to share (£38) which is a great option for people who like to enjoy a bite of everything, it would have been a shame to miss out on something or have food envy. 

An Amuse Bouche brought out was a bechamel comté and parmesan ball that was both delicious and almost akin to a cheese cloud as the inside was airy and light with a nice piquant bite from the cheeses. 

The karaage chicken had incredibly juicy chicken with a softer-than-normal batter and a crisp sharp and vibrant ponzu daikon sauce to accompany it. 

The vegetable gyoza were delicate and packed with flavour, a little difficult to share due to the crisp toping covering them, but it really added to the dish, and is worth the effort. 

The spiced brown crab croquette was very well cooked, it was just missing a touch of salt which if I had added the caviar would have elevated the dish. I will try that next time I visit.  

The hummus with fermented red pepper had a soft almost whipped texture and the flatbread was grilled and had an authentic flavour.

The shrimp fritters were stunning, soft and expertly cooked with a delightful crisp batter alongside a zingy ginger mayonnaise. I would come back time and time again just for this.   

For mains Fleurina, who looked after us expertly suggested that we have the Burger and Fish and Chips, I would have normally gone for the plat du jours, but Fleurina was so quietly confident we would enjoy them that we went with her suggestion. 

There was a very good reason for this. 

Antoine’s burger with a fried steamed bun, teriyaki marinated beef and shiso leaf gave me what I have craved in a burger recently, the meat was thick! I love a smash burger, but a thick patty perfectly medium is a true joy. The bun was slightly crisp on the outside which meant it didn’t fall apart and the fries were perfectly cooked and seasoned.  

The fish and chips with homemade tartare and chunky chips had perfectly flaky fish cooked exactly as it should be, with an amazing pea puree underneath and a crisp batter that juxtaposed the fish and sauce.

We ordered both desserts from the menu, 

The chocolate profiteroles with tonka and ice cream was a good mix of chocolate sauce and the rich vanilla-esque undertone that tonka brings, the ice cream was of a very high quality. 

The Apple Pavlova was one of the best desserts I have ever had. Crisp, refreshing fresh thinly sliced apple, with a light dusting of cinnamon and a beautiful intense apple sorbet, a cloud like meringue that just disappeared on the tongue makes this a must-order dish. I quote my guest ‘If Mr Kipling had a Michelin star this is what his exceedingly good dessert would taste like’.

For friendly, relaxed professional service in a luxurious setting with some outstanding dishes, I would highly recommend Bar Antoine.

Bar Antoine Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane Hamilton Place, London, W1J 7DR 

https://www.pavyllonlondon.com/bar-antoine/ | 020 7319 5200 

IG:  @barantoinelondon  | @fslondon

Gavin Mcgowan Madoo

Gavin Mcgowan Madoo is a food and drink correspondent for The London Economic.

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