There’s a palpable buzz in the air as we arrive at Europe’s busiest international border station and take our first steps through the historic streets of Basel. But it isn’t the Taylor Swift Eras Tour that has got people excited or a Brit Pop reunion. Rather, Matisse is in town, and the locals are, quite rightly, tickled pink about the prospect.
Basel, which sits at the intersection of Germany, Switzerland and France on the famous Rhine River, is a city that has been shaped by its colourful past. A French patent monopoly of the fuchsine dye led manufacturing to move to the region and accidentally gave rise to the modern pharmaceuticals industry that now exists.
Today, you can soak in the city’s ascent to economic pre-eminence as well as many of its cultural and geographical wonders simply by standing on top of The Pfalz viewing terrace, where smoke billows in the distance against the backdrop of its two neighbouring nations. It is also possible to see the Old Town which features architectural diversity you are not likely to find anywhere else.
But one of the stand-out features of Basel, above its booming industry, fascinating history and unique geography, has to be its art scene, which is as varied as it is extensive.
For culture vultures, it really is one of a kind.
Art in Basel
Basel and Matisse, both pioneers of revolutionary colour movements, are perfect bedfellows.
One, a leader in ‘fuschine’ dye and the other, a purveyor of ‘fauvism’, meet for a superb exhibition at the Fondation Beyeler, with more than 70 major works on loan from prestigious European and American museums as well as private collections.
Those fortunate enough to have experienced it – 22/09 2024 to 26/01 2025 – will have embarked on an era-defining, multimedia journey through the painter’s works, which included his explorations of countries such as Italy, Spain, Russia, Morocco and the United States.
But if you miss it, do not fear, Basel has more art per capita than any city I’ve ever visited in my life.
Commonly considered to be the cultural capital of Switzerland, there is art on every corner of Basel. Sometimes quite literally.
Take a walk down a small alley near the Marktplatz and you’ll find the Hoosesagg Museum, or Pocket Museum in English, where small trinkets are displayed in a constantly changing collection.
Or simply observe any one of the 300 well-maintained and beautiful historic fountains that lie dotted around, or perhaps a more modern one called The Fasnachtsbrunnen (Tinguely Fountain), which was my personal favourite.
It sits outside the Museum Tinguely which displays the work of Jean Tinguely, an artist known for satirising automation and the technological overproduction of material goods in his works.
Elsewhere, the Kunstmuseum is a must-visit.
Considered one of the most important in the country and the world, it houses the world’s oldest public art collection, which spans from the 15th century to the present.
For a full list of galleries, check out the ArtBasel list here.
How to get to Basel
Not only is Basel home to Europe’s largest border station, it also has a centrally-located airport (EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg) with frequent connections to the UK.
British Airways flies to Heathrow three times a day, while easyJet and Ryanair offer frequent services to London Gatwick, Luton and Stansted. Direct connections to Manchester and Edinburgh are also possible.
Where to stay in Basel
There are plenty of options on the accommodation front, but the one that comes TLE-recommended is the ART HOUSE in the heart of the Steinenvorstadt district.
Not only does it put the sights and nightlife on your doorstep, it also boasts trendy, spacious rooms with state-of-the-art amenities and a rooftop bar that offers superb views over the city.
Rooms start from CHF 146, or £130.
Best places to eat in Basel
Basel, like most places in Switzerland, has a superb culinary scene. Expect Germanic influences and even dishes that derive from the city itself, if sour beef liver is your thing.
Here are seven restaurants you might want to try out:
- Volkshaus Basel
- Löwenzorn
- Krafft
- Vin Optimum
- Bistro Kunstmuseum
- Zum Goldenen Sternen
- Markthalle
Must-see sights
Some of the best things to do in Basel cost hardly any money at all.
Stand on The Pfalz viewing terrace, walk around the festive or autumn markets or simply drink in the wonderful architecture around Basel’s ‘Little Venice’ District where you’ll find a fascinating water wheel.
But if you have a few francs to spare, make sure to cross the Rhine on one of four river ferries that link Grossbasel to Kleinbasel.
They are attached to a long wire cable and are driven purely by the current of the Rhine itself. They also offer superb views of the city, which is a truly enchanting place to visit.
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