Visiting Marrakesh in autumn and winter offers an unforgettable experience, contrasting beautifully with the bustling urban life of London. As the leaves start to fall from the trees in Europe, the Moroccan city pulses with life, offering a captivating mix of sounds, scents, and colours that invigorate the senses and reveal its unique culture.
One of the first things you notice upon arrival is the difference in atmosphere. While London is often shrouded in misty rains and a chill that keeps pedestrians bundled in layers, Marrakesh offers a warm, inviting climate in October. Daytime temperatures hover around 26°C, with cooler evenings ideal for wandering the labyrinthine medina. The gentle sun and crisp, dry air give you the chance to explore without the discomfort of the summer heat, a welcome contrast to London’s unpredictable rains.
Wanting to be both central but have the space to just relax, we stayed at the Le Naoura, just 15 minutes’ walk from the medina. This low rise courtyard estate built around a large swimming pool is quiet and bright, with spacious and smartly decorated rooms and individual villas. Equipped with a large spa and gym, they include breakfast with much of the usual international fare plus some local delicacies including msemens (Moroccan pancakes) made to order. It’s a real gem that I’d highly recommend.
Marrakesh immerses you in a sensory overload that is unlike anything found in the West. The city’s famous souks are like a living tapestry: narrow alleyways wind endlessly, their walls stacked high with vibrant spices, leather goods, intricate textiles, and handmade jewellery. The air is filled with the earthy, pungent aroma of cumin, cinnamon and dried mint. Along with the regular call to prayer from the minarets, it’s almost overwhelming. Here, bartering is a social event, an art form in itself, and the vendors invite you to engage in a dance of negotiation that feels both playful and intense.
At the heart of the city is Jemaa el-Fnaa, a square that feels like it has leapt from the pages of an ancient storybook. By day, it’s lively and touristy with fruit vendors and snake charmers, which can feel a bit Disney, but by night the locals take it back and it transforms into an open-air theatre with food stalls, musicians, and storytellers.
Dining in Marrakesh is a communal, soulful experience. A great place for lunch is the rooftop cafe Mazel Laksour, serving falafel, pitta sandwiches and coffees. We had a soft pita loaded with frayed lamb shank cooked for 5 hours with aubergine, onions and a pea mint sauce delivered with some of the best fries ever. Homemade tiramisu for pud with a cup of mint tea and we were back out to the souk.
With the desert only a half hour’s drive away we headed out to Inara Camp, which effectively provides glamping in the wilderness. Each tent/room is insulated against the heat and has air conditioning and the night sky is dusted with billions of stars. They also have a couple of swimming pools, camel rides and quad bike excursions to help explore the locale.
Our favourite dinner spot (we went twice on this trip) is Dadar, set on a rooftop in the medina. With a series of long tables they bring an array of sharing plates of modern Moroccan cuisine. The evening is punctuated by entertainment, with a magician, dancers, musicians and on some nights DJs providing a great party atmosphere. Get there to watch sunset and try their cocktail menu.
A trip to Marrakesh is a journey into a world where tradition and modernity coalesce seamlessly. It’s a refreshing cultural escape, worlds away from London’s rhythm, leaving you with memories enriched by the city’s vibrant people, flavours, and timeless spirit.
Travel notes
We flew British Airways from Gatwick. The arrivals queue is notorious, taking up to 3 hours so it’s worth investing in a VIP arrival service where you are fast-tracked from the plane to the taxi, costing ~£45 p/p, available online through several bureaus.
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